Get Away with the NWRCHA

An introduction to the people of the Northwest Reined Cow Horse Association

by Allison Trimble

For many hard-working people who love their horses, finding time for themselves can be extremely challenging. We all have so many responsibilities that there can be little time left for family or friends. In the past 10 years, horse shows have been my only vacations. I got to thinking about the large group of people I know who are at these shows having fun.

The Northwest Reined Cow Horse Association is an affiliate of the National Reined Cow Horse Association and has four great shows in the Northwest featuring cutting, reining and working cow horse competition. Last year, the association even added in some great beginner classes to open the doors to anyone who wants to come join in the fun. This month I interviewed some people to get insight on how showing in the NWRCHA fits into their vacation plans.

Dave Diehl

"As the President of the NWRCHA I always keep in mind that every one of our shows may be the member’s vacation. The Futurity, Derby and Northwest’s Greatest Horseman Competition that is held in July in Powell-Butte, Oregon and is a week long is the perfect setting for that. Set against the backdrop of the beautiful Brasada Ranch, it is a week full of good friends, awesome horses and activities. My wife, Linda, and I spend our scheduled vacations at horse shows every year. It is more of a lifestyle than a hobby for us, and it only makes sense to spend our vacations doing what we love with other people who feel the same way!"

Debbie Proctor

"My husband and I used to have a 'Date File' in our office that consisted of one overnight or weekend date that we would go on together a year. We were just too busy between raising children, business and our own interests, and that left little time for each other. All that changed this past year.

"For years I have been into horses and would go to reining shows with my barn friends while Lyle stayed home with the kids and animals. This past year he bought me a horse for Christmas, 'Hawkeye,' when I expressed an interest in doing reined cow horse. Lyle never shared my passion for horses, but would ride once a year on a working cattle ranch and enjoyed it. After buying Hawkeye, he started to ask me if he could come ride with me up at the barn. I eagerly shared my new present and he was having so much fun that I suggested that he should ride Hawkeye and compete! After his first show he was hooked, and ever since we have found ourselves traveling together all over the place showing this year.

"Its funny how things change. Now our kids are staying home to watch the house and animals and we are enjoying traveling together to the shows, supporting one another. We are loving the NWRCHA. What a great group of people!"

Beckie Jensen

"Like most people and their hobby, there is usually that defining moment, the moment when you say, 'I think I would like to try that – it looks like fun!' That moment for me was four years ago when Diane Edwards introduced my husband, Bob, and myself into the world of the cow horse. Anyone who shares a horse addiction knows there is only one thing more exhilarating than watching these beautiful athletes doing what they were bred and trained to do...that is to own one yourself. However, we all know that if one is good, two is twice the fun, right?

"I could fill this page with adventures that Bob and I have shared with our cow horse friends over the years, but we’ll save that for another time. My reason for writing this story is to inform others that you don’t need to be a CEO of a Fortune 500 company–you can be a retired firefighter and a college secretary–and still be part of this exciting world. Bob and I are busy planning our 2010 vacation schedule, which is built solely around the cow horse events – I couldn’t think of a better way to spend our children’s inheritance."

The NWRCHA will have four shows in 2010. There is something for everyone, and I hope to see you there!

March 19-21: Oregon Horse Center, Eugene, OR

April 30-May 2: NW Washington Fairgrounds, Lynden, WA

June 4-6: Grant County Fairgrounds, Moses Lake, WA

July 13-18: Brasada Ranch, Powell-Butte, OR

www.nwrcha.com

The New Reality of Breeding

Where are we heading with the horse breeding industry?

by Allison Trimble

These days we all are being more selective about when and how we spend our money. The horse market, considered a luxury market for most people, has been struggling. As we look forward to this breeding season I want to share with you what I have done as a breeder and stallion owner to stay afloat.

Financial Sense
I went into breeding season this year with about 13 mares of my own, all ex-show horses, and I had 11 weanlings and 11 babies due to be born. I know it seems like a simple math equation, but that situation grows your herd in a hurry. That is fine if the market is healthy and young horses are selling well, but having to keep and feed all of those prospects through the chilly Northwest winter months is a huge undertaking. I own my stallion and do 90% of the breeding work myself, so that keeps the actual cost of breeding down, but what happens after that is what gets expensive.

In January I decided I wasn’t going to breed for a couple of years. For me, it didn’t make financial sense; I simply didn’t have the time and I wanted to start to build a healthy and sustainable business. I weaned the foals this summer and started the process of legging the mares back up. The Western Washington University Equestrian Team is using most of them as their practice horses. Next year, these horses will all be back in the show pen teaching beginners the ropes in my lease program and as lesson horses. For the first time, my broodmares are paying for themselves.

The Down Side

I spent years building a breeding program I believed in and I am riding colts by my stud and out of my good mares. They are the best babies I have ever trained. I look forward to riding each of them every day, and that is a hard thing to put on hold. But when I get this group of 22 yearlings and weanlings sold, only then will I breed a select few mares of my own again. I need to be able to show the babies I have produced to make future foals more valuable and I can’t do that if I spread myself too thin.

As a stallion owner I realize that there is a real dilemma for mare owners—there are so many well bred, talented horses out there for sale right now, and they're pennies on the dollar compared to what it costs to breed to my stallion. I keep that in mind when I am approached by people wanting to breed to him. For most stallion owners, it is important to have babies getting into the show pen, so many of us are willing to give discounts to mare owners this year, especially if it is to a potential show home.

Buying vs. Breeding
Today, people are buying horses, but they care more about the individual horse than the pedigree, compared to a couple of years ago. They don’t want to be stuck with four costly horses that didn’t turn out; they want a horse they know. They want to keep their risk as low as possible while still being able to play the game. That said, many people will still breed a mare they own and love to a stallion they are comfortable with, especially if they can get a cost effective stud fee.

Horses conceived this next year will likely be trained three years from now in a much healthier market. If everyone quits breeding and tightens up too much, the standstill will be hard for the industry to recover from. We will still need good futurity horses four years from now.

Want to share how the economy is affecting your breeding, buying, training or showing decisions? Send an email to coastalequine@aol.com.

Senior Show Horses

The top 5 things to consider for aging show horses
by Allison Trimble

I went through the near-retirement of my good bridle horse, Smokums Playlena “Playboy,” a few years ago. It was a heartbreaking reality. As an 11-year-old, he was starting to have some health and maintenance issues. After quite an ordeal, he was finally diagnosed with tendonitis under his coffin and navicular bones. Cow horses are considered “aged” when they are seven or eight years old, after four or five years of hard showing. The goal is to create a show horse that can have a long career, so how do you go about increasing the likelihood that your horse will be around like our good friend Flashinic, who showed as a competitive cow horse into his 20s?

Nutrition
Even in a young cow horse, it is important to get the right balance of quality feed. Good quality, high protein hay combined with a complete, balanced grain is best. I really want to emphasize here that your horse needs to be neither too thin nor too fat. Both of these extremes become more detrimental as your horse gets older. Too fat is just as bad as too thin because it puts an unnecessary load on aging joints and bones.

Vitamin and Joint Supplements
There are so many complete vitamin and joint supplements out there, and as your horse gets older, joint supplements become an even more crucial part of their health care. Find a complete supplement that will help your horse’s body stay nourished and his joints free and flexible. There are many other ways to address joint issues, such as injections, but it is important to remember that keeping your horse comfortable is as important as any training you can put on him.

Proper Shoeing
You can’t imagine how many horses battle through poor shoeing and what a big impact this can have on their soundness. You need to evaluate your horse's feet and you need good communication with your farrier. If your horse’s feet don’t have the proper angle or are not hitting the ground evenly, the longevity of your horse as a show pony will be shortened dramatically. Often, older show horses require some sort of supportive shoeing; find a farrier who is knowledgeable about the needs of an older show horse.

Dentistry
I think most people know how important good tooth care is in older horses for feed purposes. I also want to add that dental issues can cause a lot of discomfort for an older horse packing a bit. Have your horse’s teeth checked every year by your vet or equine dentist.

Fitness
I believe this is the most important part of adding longevity to your horse’s career. There is a fine line between overworking a horse and keeping him fit. If you ride your horse like you are getting him ready for the finals at the World Show every time you ride him, he isn’t going to hold up for very many years. On the other hand, an out of shape cow horse is headed for injury. Many people feel that as their horse gets older, he is so broke they can just pull him out of the field and show him. Cow horse, reining, and cutting are sports that require a very high level of fitness. It is more dangerous to take an unfit, broke horse out and work him hard than it is a young colt. Any good show horse is going to give you all he has, and if he isn’t fit, that can lead to all sorts of injuries.

Furthermore, a lot of subtle soundness issues can be maintained by having a horse that has strong supporting muscles. You will notice that if you lay off show horses for very long, you will see little hitches in their git-along that you didn’t see before.

The most obvious reason to keep your older show horse fit is that it just gets harder as they get older to get them back to the level of fitness they once had. I think most of us can understand this—I know that getting in shape is a heck of a lot harder than it was five years ago for me.

You should consider all of the items above in any show horse, but I want to drive home the point that these things are crucial in an older horse. I suggest having a good relationship with a vet who specializes in show horses. He or she will be able to help you troubleshoot unforeseen issues. I was fortunate enough to catch Playboy’s issues early enough, and with a great vet was able to get him to recover to the point where at the age of 14 he won a little girl her first saddle. There is nothing more rewarding than watching a special horse that has taught you so much stay in the show pen long enough to give that experience to a new generation.

Choose Confidence

Show pen strategy, part 3 of 3
by Allison Trimble

One of the most important tools you have in your showing "grooming bag" is confidence. Competitors need to understand that they are capable of being confident regardless of their performance outcomes. It is natural for a person to feel and act confident when showing well and unconfident and frustrated during or after a poor run. These competitors “go with the flow” and allow their performance to dictate their confidence. By taking responsibility for your confidence by viewing it as a choice, you can influence your level of performance rather than letting your performance influence you.

Different Types of Confidence
Confidence can be defined as the belief in one’s ability to successfully perform a skill or set of skills at a desired level, and it can be more trait-like or state-like. Confidence that remains relatively stable day in and day out due to personality factors is trait-like confidence. Unstable confidence that is apt to change for differing situations is state-like confidence. Tendencies in state-like confidence can either facilitate or inhibit positive trait-like confidence. Confidence can be affected by other psychological aspects, too, such as motivation and anxiety levels. Mental training techniques such as positive imagery, goal setting and negative thought stoppage can have a positive influence on confidence, both in and out of the show ring.

The vast majority of research indicates that self-confidence is a key component to successful performance. However, there is a point when too much confidence can become detrimental. Optimal confidence allows athletes to be convinced that if they put in the necessary hard work they will be successful. Overconfident athletes think that they can get by on their talent alone and not work hard to achieve their goals. Overconfidence can have a negative impact on performance and is an undesirable characteristic. However, most competitors dealing with confidence issues are under-confident.

Confidence as a Choice
When confidence comes from internal aspects, a competitor can feel it despite negative external factors. There are three tools that can be use to increase internal confidence if used correctly. These are:

• Free will – Free will is the ability to act or think independently in the presence of all other influences. Until the athlete truly believes he can control the quality of his thoughts, he will never completely control his confidence. Confidence results from competitors proactively choosing correct responses at home and in competition.

• Self-awareness – Being self-aware is knowing the thinking and responding habits one has in competitive situations. Like physical habits, responsive thinking habits are often automatic and done without consciousness during performance. Awareness of your own thinking tendencies lets you scrutinize these habits, while free will gives you the ability to change them.

• Imagination - Imagination is a powerful tool because of its ability to create instant thoughts and feelings that reach beyond the present reality. The willingness to use imagination in ways that increase confidence is important in creating the necessary performance mindset.

Show with Confidence
Competitors are confident when they "turn their minds off" during competition and trust their training. Having a trusting mindset allows a confident state of mind in which one is free of conscious control and trusts the automatic selection and execution of skills during performance. Lacking trust often results in over-thinking, over-correction of movements, or trying too hard. This can cause delayed or overly reactionary responses.

Remember that confidence is a choice, choose to use it, and I guarantee you will see the results in the show pen.

A special thanks to my husband, Jon Rylaarsdam, for helping me with this topic. See more of our program at www.coastalequine.com.

Schooling Your Horse

Show pen strategies, part 2 of 3: tune your horse up in the ring
by Allison Trimble

If you show much, there will come a time when you need to change some things about your show experience. The most common way to go about this is with schooling runs. This means that you have walked into the pen with the intention of not caring about your score or to purposely zero. Typically, people school because there is a negative behavior they want to address in their horses, or they are preparing to show in a big event and are going in to practice in a way that tunes the horse up. To school your horse, you usually enter in the least expensive class you are eligible for. In some associations or clubs, there are even schooling sessions you can purchase that are for a set amount of time.

Either way, there are a few things I want you to know about the benefits of schooling your horse:

Practice in a Show Environment
There is no better way to get used to the show pen than to set foot in it. If you approach your class as though you are schooling, it lets you get the majority of the show experience without caring how you score. All of the components--like being alone in the pen in front of the judge and crowd, having to stay on pattern and remember all the parts you are supposed to--can be hard enough without having to worry about how you are scored. Think of it simply as practice, like a pre-season game; no one cares who wins or loses, it is just a starting point.

Make Changes in Your Show Approach
If you have been showing for years, even though you are making growth at home in your horse’s or your training, it can be hard to make those changes transfer into the show pen. When you get in show mode and your head is cloudy and you step out of the arena with no recollection of what you have done, it can be challenging to make the changes in your show approach that you want to make. This is a great opportunity to walk into the pen and think your way through your job as pilot. I think schooling is really the only way to make significant changes in your showing method.

Fix Bad Habits
It is extremely common for horses to learn that the show pen is a place where you are going to let them get away with an inch, and it almost always turns into them taking a mile. If your horse anticipates the lead change, you can counter canter him through the center and change on the other circle. If your horse wants to get strong in your rundowns, you can pull him into the ground; if he doesn't want to run down, you can run him to the fence. If your horse is not turning around well, or is shutting down in the turn-around, you can spin him as much as you need to. The same goes for bad habits you may have in the pen. If you catch yourself doing something you want to break yourself of doing, you can always repeat that maneuver until you have accomplished it in a way that satisfies you.

Decrease Your Horse's Anxiety
After running hard patterns and gunning at prizes, it is not uncommon for horses to get hyped up when they go through the gate. When you school your horse, you have the opportunity to slow down and let him know that not every run is the big run. You can start to lope off, and then just walk your horse a quarter or half circle. If he is getting too excitable, just break him down and let him walk a bit. You can put the pressure on him in a maneuver, and then let him stand for an extended period and settle before moving on.

Help the Horse Focus on You
When we show for points or money, we really hang our horses out there to show what they can do. This often means that we are really trusting them to stay connected, but it also means that they have the temptation of all the things out there, like umbrellas and kids on scooters, to distract them. To get the big score on the current run, we may ride through some things that can cause problems down the road. I like to school my horses pretty often just to make sure they remember I am up there. I may give them a little rope to hang themselves with when schooling, but I am right there to snatch them up if they disconnect. This helps build a pattern in which horses feel like they are still working even though they are being shown.

Go In With a Game Plan
I like to have a plan of something in particular I want to work on before I go in to school. I will generally bait my horse into doing whatever negative behavior I am working on, and then correct it. I don’t usually get after my horses hard when I am schooling because I believe that if you make a horse hate to go into the show ring, that particular problem is something you are unlikely to fix. I generally just coolly correct him and move on to the next thing. I also like to pet my horses when they are good in the pen, just to reaffirm their positive behavior and make it seem as though it is no different from when we are training at home.

So take a moment and think about what you could change or fix if you were to school your horse and what you can do in a schooling run to fix it.

Approaching the Pattern

Show pen strategies, Part 1 of 3
by Allison Trimble

I have developed a presentation that I give to my clients who are getting ready to show that will help them be prepared when they walk through the gate. In the next couple of columns, I will be sharing that information with you. This month we will be discussing how to approach the pattern. This is not about the training that goes into getting a horse ready to show; it is just to help you prepare your mind for the pattern that lies ahead of you.

Avoiding a Score of Zero
This is one of the biggest apprehensions in novice showpeople and can seem to haunt riders from show to show.

Staying on Pattern - One of the first mistakes people make is attempting to memorize the patterns weeks in advance. It is more important to get the feel of the patterns. In the weeks before and the weekend of the show, watch a lot of runs and become familiar with the nature of a reining pattern rather than memorizing the pattern on paper. Once you are feeling the flow of the pattern, you will only really need to remember which way to start your circles, the order of the circles, which way you spin first, and whether the rollbacks are toward or away from the judge.

Right before your class, walk the pattern on the ground or trace it in the air as you visualize yourself running the pattern in real time. When you are in the pen, take a moment to think only of your next maneuver. Don’t overwhelm yourself and flood your brain by thinking about all the maneuvers to come.

There are other common errors that result in a score of zero that you should be aware of:

Excessive backing up – If your horse takes more than four steps backward at any point other than the specified back-up, you are considered off pattern and receive a score of zero.

Rein and Equipment Violations – In reining competition, you are only allowed to touch your horse, your saddle, or adjust your reins with your off hand if you are stopped and in between maneuvers. There are also very specific rules regarding equipment and bits that will result in a disqualification if not followed. Before the show, become familiar with the rulebook of the association in which you are competing, and make sure that you have legal equipment and are showing your horse in the right headgear.

Over- or Under-spinning – The way I teach my clients to count spins is like this: as you come around to the stopping point on your first spin, count aloud each time you come past that point, “one-two-three-WHOA.” If you count this way, and aloud, you and your horse will hear you say "whoa." It is also important that you have a crisp shut-off. Anything over a quarter of a circle of over-spin will also result in a score of zero. When your horse jumps out of a spin, or something else goes awry, it is easy to lose track of your counting, so be diligent about sticking to the method.

Preparing for Spins
In addition to what I mentioned above, make sure you take your time starting your spin. Take the first few steps slowly to make sure the horse is locked into the turnaround before you ask for speed.

Circles
When you first walk into the pen, stop, settle and take a deep breath. This will help to relax both you and your horse. Walk into your lead departure and make sure that your horse is set up to strike off on the correct lead. Keep your circles round and even, showcasing your horse’s steering and his ability to be willingly guided. Think about your speed variation and be conscious of not asking for comeback too soon or too late. Simply relax your body and ask your horse to come back to you.

Think your way through setting your horse up for his lead change. Think of your circle before the lead change as a “D” shape. Get straight before the change and stay straight for a few strides after the change.

Stops, Rollbacks and Backing Up
In all walk-in patterns, it is really important that you turn the corner to your stop sharply (think of it as a 90 degree turn), staying at least 20 feet from the fence, and get straight, straight, straight. Control your build-up so you are not running too hard too soon, or taking off halfway down the pen. You want your rundown to build incrementally faster with each stride your horse takes.

The last stride before your stop should be the fastest your horse has gone in the rundown. Be sure that you are looking up with your chest and shoulders open. Make certain that you ride all the way to your stop and that you are actually saying “whoa.” A lot of times--and this is an issue for me, too--people will forget to say the word in the show pen when they become tense.

Make sure your horse has finished the stop and stood up before you ask for your rollback. Look up and drive out of the rollback to avoid trotting steps. After your last stop, hesitate a moment, and then ask your horse to back up straight and at a cadent speed, being easy with your hand.

Congratulations! You made it through the pattern alive!

Coming next issue: "Schooling your Horse," followed by "Mental Rehearsal for the Show Pen."

Break Bad Habits

Common bad riding habits and how to overcome them

by Allison Trimble

A common topic of conversation in my barn is how to change bad habits that have taken hold over years of riding. It is surprising how similar a lot of people’s problems are. In a sport as specific as reining or cow horse, these habits can cause immeasurable problems in your horse’s training and in his ability to perform maneuvers. I asked a group of regulars at my barn what they feel I harp on them about the most, and after being barraged by suggestions, we settled on the following as the most common problems across the broadest group of people.

Leaning

Whether in your circles, spins or when working a cow, leaning gets in the way of your horse completing a maneuver at speed. In your circles it can cause your horse to pop out of lead or drop his shoulder into the circle, and it can definitely affect your steering. In spins, it is common for people to lean out and shoot their inside leg forward when asking the horse to turn. You may be able to get away with this when your horse is turning slowly, but when he starts to speed up, you aren’t centered enough to go with him. On a cow, riders can have a tendency to lean in toward the cow when it changes direction. This puts you off balance and puts your body in the way of your horse coming through the turn and staying with the cow. Balanced and centered riding is the key to successful maneuvers.

Broken Wrists

Any time you take the slack out of your reins by “breaking” your wrists (bending them out of line with your arm) when you are riding two-handed, you are making a weak and difficult-to-control motion. Imagine that your arm, from your elbow to your knuckles, is on the same plane. When you handle the reins, wrist-breaking changes that angle in your wrist joint. There is no strength or control in this motion; you are putting all of the weight and pull on a very small and weak joint. What you should be doing is keeping your elbows bent and drawing your whole arm back using your shoulders, back and abdominals to accomplish the motion.

Busy Hands

I truly believe that to maintain a horse’s softness in the face, you have to be very consistent in the way you handle his face. When people are learning new things or working on maneuvers, they can become extra busy with their hands. Similar things happen in the show pen when nerves set in. Horses do not respond well to the bit being rattled around in their mouths for no reason. Try very hard to only take hold of your horse’s face when you are being thoughtful. When you are trotting or loping, try to absorb the movement of the horse in your shoulders, and do not let the movement of the horse--or your body--travel down your hands to his mouth.

Pulling Yourself Forward

This is a really common mistake that people don’t often know they do. When riding two-handed, most people have a tendency to pull themselves up to the horse’s face when they take hold of the reins, rather than sitting back and driving with their bodies, drawing the horse back to themselves. This puts you out of position, encourages hanging on the horse’s face, and generally does nothing but speed the horse up. It is such a simple thing, but causes so many problems; so if you choose only one of the bad habits on this list to get rid of, this should be it.

Throwing Yourself Into Your Stop

Whether you are teaching a green horse to stop, or running and stopping a finished show horse, you do not want to say “whoa” and then throw your shoulders back and reach for your stirrups. A stop is a powerful maneuver that requires you to be centered and supple in your body. The motion of your horse lifting his shoulders and running down the pen is what helps you lift your shoulders and be prepared to stop. Overdoing this position will put you out of sync with your horse and behind his motion when he goes to the ground. Think about elevating your chest and looking up in your rundowns, saying “whoa,” and then tipping your pelvis and going to the ground with your horse, not before him. A rigid body or throwing your shoulders back can lead to the kind of stops where everyone goes “OUCH” when they see it.

My broadest suggestion for you if you are maintaining your own horse is to use common sense. Know what you are trying to accomplish, and analyze whether or not what you are doing is working toward that or away from it. Videotape yourself and look at the video objectively. You will be surprised how many problems you can solve by watching yourself. You want to be able to identify your bad habits and then recognize them when you do them in real time. It will help you tighten up the distance between the rider you are now and the rider you want to be.

Intro to Working Cattle

The difference between reining, cutting and reined cow horse work

by Allison Trimble

There are some basic concepts that are important to understand before you begin working cattle. One of the most important things to keep in mind is that you are working toward your horse controlling the movement of a cow mostly of his own volition. No matter what level you are working at, your horse’s understanding of his job is paramount to your success. Dragging your horse around, or working faster than your horse or you are ready for, will never help you reach your goals. As competent as you may become at reading cattle, your horse will always have the ability to read another animal better than you will, if given the chance. Keeping that in mind will help guide your training.

Whether your goal is cutting, reined cow horse, team penning, or roping at its most base definition, you are attempting to control the movement of a cow. There are varied skills needed for these different disciplines, but they all originate from tasks performed on a working cattle ranch and showcase the ability of a horse and rider to perform a necessary task. I find that this is a great motivator for me in my training; I like having a purpose for both myself and my horse. It is also very important to remember that it is not just getting the job done, but accomplishing it with control and finesse.

Body Shape

At its simplest, you need to expect your horse to turn right and left with the cow, at the same speed as the cow is moving, and stop with the cow. But as simple as it sounds, it can get quite complicated when you start beginning to step up your horse’s performance. When working cattle, it is important that your horse travels parallel to the cow with a rounded body; his nose should be tipped toward the cow and his ribcage and inside shoulder picked up and rounded away from the cow. As the direction of the cow changes, so does the positioning of your horse.

Positioning on a Cow

Positioning and an understanding of how to move cattle is vital. Often a less broke horse can better control a cow because of the rider’s understanding of cattle behavior. Stepping to a cow’s tail end will drive the cow forward, while stepping past the cow’s shoulder will stop it, and stepping past its head will turn it. There are, of course, variations in cattle and you are able to affect a cow’s natural response, but most cattle will adhere to those rules. When you are moving parallel across the arena with the cow, you are hunting to teach your horse to go with the cow, to rate across the pen with the cow’s head approximately even with your horse’s shoulder, and to stop, draw back, and turn with the cow.

Turning – Reining vs. Cow Horse

There is a major difference between the turn that a cowhorse or cutter makes and the spin or turnaround that a reining horse makes. A spin is forward motion in which the outside leg steps in front of the inside leg and the horse stands and pivots on a hind inside leg.

A turn on a cowhorse/cutter is a stop, then a draw-back and turn in which the horse steps behind the inside front leg and drives off of the outside hind leg. Though it may not seem like it, this is a significant difference.

Cutter vs. Cow Horse

Cutting horses need to be able to drive out and separate one cow from a herd of cattle, and then keep that cow separated on a slack rein. The motion of a cutting horse is to move back and forth on an invisible line between the separated cow and the herd, both mirroring and controlling the cow at the same time. The rider can use her legs behind the shoulder to aid the horse, but may not rein. The cow is constantly coming toward or being pushed at the horse, trying to get back to the herd. This often can help keep the horse drawn back. The catlike movement and athleticism of a cutting horse is a marvelous thing. The ability of a horse to control a cow entirely on its own is simply amazing.

Reined cow horses must first complete a reining pattern. Most cow horses have been worked out of the herd, similar to cutting, but in the herdwork portion of a cow horse competition, you are able to assist your horse with your reins if needed. In the cow work, you have the advantage of being able to subtly guide your horse with your reins throughout the run, hence the term reined cow horse. The horse is also required to have the ability to both draw back like a cutter (in the boxing competition) and to line out next to a cow, drive it straight down the pen, turn it at speed, and circle it in the center of the pen. This obviously requires very fast forward motion and changes in direction. Steering at speed is very important in a cow horse. Whether a participant or spectator, the rush and excitement of a fence run is an experience that is hard to rival.

Each of the above disciplines requires a different skill set for both the rider and the horse, but the basic principle remains the same: you are building a team in which your horse’s ability is just as important as your own, and proper training can lead to years of fun with cows.

Introduction to Cattle, Part 1

Working with cows can improve the basics

by Allison Trimble

People often have the feeling that working cattle looks fun but may be out of their reach. The cow horse industry in the Northwest has taken many steps to welcome everyone who wants to participate in this great sport. In the spirit of that effort, I want to take the next series of articles to encourage you and to help walk you through the beginning steps of introducing you and your horse to cattle. First, I'll cover some of the positive aspects of working cows, including cattle work in your program. I'll also introduce you to some people like you who have done just that!

All Horses Can Benefit

It is a misconception that you have to have a certain type of horse to enjoy training on cattle. True, certain breeds and specific bloodlines are more suited for becoming the type of horse that you can win on in the show pen, but all horses can grow from exposure to working cattle. You will immediately have a gauge of how broke your horse is. Showing your horse something new always gives you an opportunity to broaden his experience. You will get a good idea of how solid your steering and body control are, and you will have a chance to work on those skills with a goal in mind.

Making the training relate to the cow gives you a fresh angle on old problems. For a horse that is cranky about letting you work on some aspect of training, such as stopping or turning, cow work gives you an opportunity to improve those things while your horse’s mind is occupied with the cow. You are giving your horse a purpose, and that is a positive thing for all horses. He will gain confidence from his ability to move and control another animal, and you will gain confidence because you are able to further your horse’s training.

The most important value of adding cattle to your regimen is good ol’ fashioned fun! Do you remember what that is? I know that sometimes I forget. When I work cattle I remember why I clean those stalls, pay those bills, and stomp around in the Northwest mud all winter. When you work cattle you are challenging yourself and your horse, but in a way that even when everything doesn’t come together perfectly, at the end of the day you still will have a smile on your face!

Next month we will move on to the basics of cattle work and some direction on how to introduce your horse to cattle. I have been putting on a number of Introduction to Cattle clinics, and I wanted to share with you the perspectives of some of the participants on their experience working cattle for the first time.

Tracey Westbury:

I was pretty excited to add a new aspect to my mustang’s training. My horse and I had never worked cattle before, but it was something I’d wanted to give a try.

Sandy, my mustang gelding who accompanied me to the Western States Mustang Challenge in Sacramento the previous year, is a no-nonsense sort of guy. He’s got a great work ethic and never disappoints when I head off in a new direction with him. This particular day was no different. He entered the herd of cattle like he was born to it, splitting them in half, circling them back into each other, pushing and driving as though it was an everyday affair. When it came time to trail our first calf, he was more than ready. With little help from me, he stuck to that calf and was soon driving it up the rail, boxing and turning it back in the opposite direction. We had so much fun, I’ve asked for cows for my birthday!

Beanie Coons:

When I heard about the cow horse clinic, I was so excited! I've had a couple opportunities to play with cows in the past, and it's so fun! I think it's a great way to use some of the maneuvers we are trying to get our horses to do naturally, while focusing on something other than the next cue. I think it builds confidence in both the rider and horse while working on something new. The cow horse clinic was really learning some basics with cows. We let the horses get comfortable, and then spent some time learning about how our positioning affects the cow and learning when to move and when not to. I really want to continue learning to work cattle. I think my horse enjoyed it as much as I did!

Hand Positioning for Steering, Part 2 of 2

The basics of one-handed steering 

by Allison Trimble  

Last month, we took a look at two-handed steering. Now, let's look at one-handed.  

One of the main misconceptions about a horse being broke one handed (for neck reining) is that people believe that you just lay your rein across the horse’s neck and the horse will go the other way. This is a very small portion of what being broke one-handed means. Read the full article with photos in our digital edition!  

Hand Positioning for Steering, Part 1 of 2

Proper hand position helps both horse and rider

by Allison Trimble

There are common issues found in most beginning reiners or cow horse people. When you add speed and precision to your horse experience, your body and hand positioning become more important to your success than if you were a trail rider or pleasure rider exclusively. Having your body and hands correct allows you to use your positioning to create or control the horse's positioning more precisely. I know that almost every new person to my barn, despite their years of experience in other horse sports, finds it challenging to properly use their hands to steer. 

People become so wrapped up in completing a maneuver, especially when the maneuver is new, that they lose track of the fact that what they are doing affects the horse's success. This usually presents itself right away in regard to hand positioning and steering. Read the full article online in the April digital edition...

Join the Cow Horse Fun

The Northwest Reined Cow Horse Association is beginner-friendly

by Allison Trimble

The Northwest Reined Cow Horse Association is an affiliate of the National Reined Cow Horse Association and offers cow horse, reining and cutting events at shows throughout the Northwest. The growth in the cow horse sport over the past five years has been staggering, and this association has a competitive level that rivals any in the nation. In their quest to encourage new participants, for the first time this year, the NWRCHA is offering classes that are open to all levels of competition.

The reined cow horse sport is rooted in history. Divisions are modeled after the vaquero tradition of training horses for work. The horses are athletic and talented and the riders are experienced. NWRCHA shows offer classes that are NRCHA-approved, such as hackamore, bridle, two rein, and non pro limited (boxing) classes, along with special events such as futurities, derbies, and bridle spectaculars. Typically, horses are shown in futurities and derbies in a snaffle bit. Then, as four- and five-year-olds, they are shown in the hackamore for one year. Usually, 6-year-olds are shown in the two rein, and then spend the rest of their careers showing in the bridle (one-handed in a spade bit and romels). This is an awesome method for training and showing your horse, but can sometimes be limiting and overwhelming for new people who are looking to get involved. Most beginners start with the non pro limited class, in which the competitor performs a reining pattern and then “boxes” a cow only, meaning they work the cow in the end of the pen but do not take it down the fence. 

There are a few hurdles for new people coming into this sport. Unless you ride with a trainer, knowing the rules, regulations and standards can be challenging and expensive to learn. Classes can also be expensive, and there is the issue of purchasing proper gear such as romels, a cow horse bit, and chaps. Many beginners have horses that are slightly older; riders may have some experience reining or working a cow, but would not be able to show their horses one-handed. 

Sometimes the restrictions on classes and the level of competition at these shows can give the impression that the cow horse world is unfriendly or does not welcome new people. This is simply untrue. 

For the past year, the NWRCHA has been trying to find an answer to this problem, and I am happy to announce that the following classes will be put into effect at the NWRCHA show in Lynden on March 13, 14 and 15:

   1. Beginning Reining Class: open to those who have won less than $100 in reining or cow horse competition. There are no restrictions on bits, breeds, or age of the horse. 

   2. Beginning Boxing Class: open to those who have won less than $100 in cow horse competition. There are no restrictions on bits, breeds, or age of horse, and chaps are not required. 

Both classes have relatively low entry fees, and riders are only required to be a member of the NWRCHA. Even more exciting is that there will be a buckle awarded in each class at every show--one in the reining class and one in the cow horse class. Buckles go to the competitor with the highest cumulative score of the two days combined. The two buckles at the March show are sponsored by your very own Karen Pickering and the Northwest Horse Source Magazine. 

So come on out and join the fun! There is no longer an excuse not to participate. If you feel like you don’t know anyone at the shows, well, you know me--so hunt me down and I’ll introduce you around to everyone. I am happy to answer any questions about the show or getting involved in the great sport of cow horse. You can reach me directly at coastalequine@aol.com. 

More information is available at www.nwrcha.com. 

Horse Play Your Way

Make learning fun for you and your horse!

by Allison Trimble

The reason I began writing this column was to encourage everyone to come out and be a part of this great industry. I was hoping to be the bridge between beginners and trainers. Since I have hung out my shingle, I have been looking for other Northwest trainers who are open to beginners. This winter I was fortunate to find another person who shares a lot of my vision: Natalie Vonk has designed her program in a way that allows riders of all levels to participate. In my first trip to Canada to visit her, I was introduced to the ball. As trainers or beginners, we all can find it hard to stay fresh and motivated. I had a blast playing on Pinball (Natalie’s horse) with the ball and couldn’t wait to bring this experience--and Natalie--to all of you! 

Allison Trimble: Introduce us to the ball!

Natalie Vonk: It is a 40" canvas-covered ball used as a tool to help you with schooling your horse, developing your natural aids, and at the same time, having a lot of fun! We use this ball in lessons and clinics to encourage the horse to want to learn and for riders to feel a balanced turn with focus and learn correct leg and rein aids while strengthening their seat. We find that even the shyest horse is very attracted to learning the ball within a very short time. Naturally, they are very curious and get hooked quite quickly once they learn that they are the power behind the ball. 

AT: When you train horses/riders on the ball, what is the process you go through?

NV: Often, we introduce the horse and rider on the ground to help both read each other and learn to work through the horsemanship and communication needed to learn to team up and push the ball. While strengthening a rider’s horsemanship on the ground, they develop the trust and the direction needed to make contact with the ball. We start with teaching them how to drive their horse around the ball, then use pressure and release to intrigue the horse. Horses are curious by nature and become very attached to the ball as they learn to make the ball retreat, which builds a desire to put pressure on the ball themselves. It is very exciting to watch riders communicate with their horses to trust them and then take the direction to push the ball with the horse's nose or feet. Once a rider can make the ball travel in front of the horse by using nose or feet, then we start asking them to change directions on the ball to educate each eye. Learning to weave the ball through cones or to hit the ball to a target is only a small amount of the fun that you can have challenging your horsemanship skills and communication. 

AT: How does this apply to reining?

NV: In order to move the ball efficiently from [the horse's] back, you need to develop good shoulder control and quiet guiding with your hands. I find that the ball often gets the horses more sensitive to leg and seat aids, which keeps them lighter in the bridle. The ball is also an excellent way to freshen the horse that has become dull in the arena, as it creates an interest and natural drive in the horse, not unlike figuring out that the ball is below them in pecking order and easily moves off of their own horsepower. Not only shoulder control is improved, but you can really work on your lateral body control and see results. 

AT: How does this apply to cow work?

NV: We have had a lot of fun relating the positions of work on cattle to those of working on the ball. You need to keep your horse balanced through its hind end and light through the shoulders to sweep around the ball. You can build “shape” on the ball while gaining a better feel for your horse’s body control. I have found that this is a great tool to bring out more confidence in horses that have not been consistent in their focus on a cow or have been too nervous to become engaged. The interest gets so strong that in some horses you can work the ball bridleless after only a few times working it.

Allison: Why is this concept such a benefit to beginners?

Natalie: This is the most amazing tool to use for beginners because the ball helps riders have focus and fun while developing their seat, leg and hands. The ball creates a fun way to feel when the signals are correct and see the results. The ball inspires riders that have been timid in the saddle and encourages those who are unsure of their signals to their horses. Teaching riders how to use their aids more effectively, creating feel and building their timing, becomes easy.

About Natalie Vonk and Horse Play Your Way

Natalie has taken every opportunity to expand her knowledge and ride under many gifted trainers in many disciplines. She sees learning as a lifelong adventure and the horse as an amazingly rewarding partner and teacher along the way. Her facility is proud to be the home of the green horse/green rider, but they are capable of helping the most advanced riders as well. Learn more about Natalie and her program at www.horseplayyourway.com. 

Building a Team of Two, Part 2

Horse and rider come back together
by Allison Trimble

This has been a great month! Karen and April have made more improvement than I would have thought to hope for. Karen is such an open-minded student and has made a great effort to get to the barn and put in her time in the saddle, whether it is on one of my horses or on April. It has been a real challenge for her to rearrange her schedule, but she has a determination that is really paying off, and this commitment to showing up 3-4 times a week is the biggest change she's made from her earlier training. In less than a month, this team has gone from feeling downtrodden and unable to reach their dreams to being hopeful and moving forward.

We had decided in the beginning that it would be a good idea for Karen and April to do some separate learning. For the first three weeks, I rode April and worked on building her confidence, tolerance and maneuvers. It didn’t take long for her to start loping freely and steering well. Her turn-arounds were coming along nicely and she was becoming really trainable and relaxed. It took much less time than I had thought it would to have her settle into the routine.

This past week we have started bringing April and Karen back together for a couple of rides. It is remarkable to see the transformation in both of them. Karen is much more confident in her ability to ask a horse to do something and get the desired result. She understands how to keep April between her hands and legs when she is loping circles. With a horse like April, who is really feely and can tend to be a bit nervous, it is crucial to be very black-and-white in your commands. A lot of nervous behavior and fidgeting or unclear commands can add to this type of horse’s apprehension. Karen is getting much better at not picking at April, just correcting her when she needs it and otherwise leaving her alone.

Karen's new spurs have made a huge difference. They sit lower on her boots than the old ones, adding about two inches to her legs, and the shank is tipped downward. Now when she goes to use her legs she is able to use her calf without unintentionally spurring and can get her legs under April's belly to cue her instead of jabbing her in the sides.

April has proven to have a really nice turn-around. The essence of a good spin is that it is cadent, and the goal is to back off and let the horse do its job. For a lot of people who have not ridden a pretty finished horse, it is hard to comprehend that a horse will turn around without you constantly telling it to do so. Karen learned how to properly spin a horse by riding a couple of my show horses, so it was much easier for her when she went back to April.

Another maneuver most beginners have trouble with on their own horses is lead changes. When we were trying to figure out the right program for April and Karen to get the most progress as economically as possible, we decided it was important that April develop a solid lead change before she went back to having Karen as her main riding partner. We decided that one more month of training with me working on her lead changes would be best; during that time, we would start having Karen ride April a couple of times a week as well. One issue with April’s lead change is that she has done a lot of simple lead changes. Every time she goes to change leads, she wants to break down first, and then change. This is going to take a little time to work through and will be challenging for Karen. I want her to learn how to change leads on one of my horses so when April is ready for her to start, Karen will know what to do and how it should feel.

The lead change is really the only maneuver I think might cause Karen to get into trouble if she tries it on her own. The circles, spins, stops and rollbacks will be very manageable for her, as long as she keeps up on her riding and takes regular lessons.

I think both Karen and I have been pleasantly surprised by how well April has taken to this program. I, for one, am really looking forward to seeing them in the show pen together.

Karen Says...
"It's been almost a month since I started with this program. I'm enjoying the time in the saddle and feeling more confident. For the first time, I have the belief that I really can do this! We have covered so many aspects of riding that I really hadn’t thought much about: the proper use of spurs, the reasons behind the use of certain bits, and how to find the right equipment for April. Riding April this week after some time apart, I'm amazed at the progress we've both made.

I'm excited to get back in the show ring and compete again with confidence. My horse is happy and seems to enjoy her job. This has gone from being something I dreamed of--but struggled with--to a reality. Most importantly, I'm having fun!"

Building a Team of Two

Part one in a new series following the training of horse and rider for reining competition
by Allison Trimble

The main reason I began writing this column was to encourage more people to become involved in the reining, cowhorse and cutting industries. I have known Karen Pickering since I moved to Whatcom County in 2000. Her contribution to the Northwest equine community is great and she is always encouraging people to get out and ride and to try new things. I think the story of Karen and her horse, April, is one that is written every day in the lives of many of my readers. I hope that sharing with you her journey to move forward will inspire you to do the same. Over the next few months, we will be following Karen’s path as she works toward getting into the show pen next season.

Beginnings 
As a girl and young adult, Karen had ridden rank horses without fear, but about 15 years ago, she was in a horse wreck and her confidence was a bit shaken.

Karen purchased April as a yearling in 2000 with the hope of having her first reining horse. She sent April for about eight months of professional training as a young horse, and for the past few years Karen has ridden her all over on the trails and has shown in some local reining shows. Now a nine-year-old, April is kind, easy to get along with and gentle. She can be left for weeks without work and still handle a rider on her back as she heads down the trail.

Like many of you, Karen has the horse she wants, but is looking to find a way to take this horse and show her in local reining events.

Last week, Karen and April came to my place for our first session. I put Karen on a finished horse of mine and hopped Karen's gray beauty. As we walked around, we identified as many of the obstacles that Karen was facing as we could. One of the main suggestions that I had was that I thought the team would greatly benefit from Karen improving her skills separately from April learning her role. I believe that the two of them will come back together as a stronger team.

Karen's Experience
At that time, I discovered Karen was quite downtrodden about her lack of ability at a lope. She could not get April to “pack her head” at anything other than a walk. Karen felt that she was unable to sit the lope and was all over the place when she tried to do maneuvers. She also felt uncertain where to start with controlling her hands.

We spent some time having her lope around on my mare Jane. Jane is not an overly "feely" horse, and she will easily tolerate a person being a little off target. Karen really did very well on a finished horse, so although she will certainly benefit from continued riding on a finished horse, the problem was not all hers.

April's Experience
April was ready for a fight as soon as I threw a leg over. Don’t get me wrong, she wasn’t trying to hurt me, she was just immediately tense and resistant. She is an extremely “feely” horse, very sensitive to legs and hands. That is a great thing in the hands of someone used to it, but is not always a great trait in a non pro horse.

I tried to lope a handful of circles. We were all over the place. It didn’t take me long to understand why Karen was feeling uncomfortable at a lope, because I was starting to feel like I couldn’t ride. April was just so touchy that she was very easily bothered. She was wiggly in her face, wiggly in her body, and because of it, had no cadence in her movement. She also has a long history of going to clinics and lessons and having all manner of new ideas and techniques thrown her way, which has caused some nervous habits.

In my experience, a mare like this--super sensitive and wobbly, and especially a horse with some age on her-- needs the kind of stability that a bit can offer. I went in the barn and got a Billy Allen bit from the tack room and put it on her. It took about ten minutes of moving around before she would let me pick up my hands and rock my legs on her belly. Then she rounded up and dropped the elevation of her head and rounded her back.

While I worked with Karen on learning to do the same thing on Jane, I trotted and loped around on April, working on getting her relaxed and cadent. We were also able to identify that with her shorter legs, Karen needed spurs that turned down so she wasn’t spurring April every stride. Spurs are important for cueing, but can be very annoying, especially to a sensitive horse, if they get it in the sides all the time for no reason.

The huge negative reaction April was having to Karen’s legs and hands was largely caused by her sensitivity. That same sensitivity, when properly handled, quickly turned into a soft and willing partner. It was such a dramatic difference when she understood. She truly is one of the softest horses I have ridden.

The Second Session
The second session was a night and day difference. April started out right where we left off. Karen continued to work with Jane on the same things I was working on with April. This session, April loped right off on a relatively loose rein and let me handle her around at a collected and cadent lope. Karen and I talked a lot about really simplifying things with a horse like April. We charted a path where we would work on building both of their confidence through things like steering, softness and collection.

At the end of the ride, Karen moved from Jane to April and we went through the same exercises. With the new confidence that she could get a horse to go around looking the part, Karen was able to lope around on April and look like a reiner. The smile on her face and her obvious boost in confidence were great. It was the moment when I think she first realized that it was possible. Our little team has a long way to go, but this was a big step in the right direction!

From Karen’s Mouth
“Allison and I will be tracking this journey and hopefully we'll give some of you insight into having more success with your horse no matter what direction you take. I'm liking the lesson program with Allison where I'm on a finished horse and she's working mine.

I believe we all need to do what matters most to us. My goal is to get more enjoyment out of my arena riding, learn some new things and be somewhat competitive at the local level.”

The New Horse Market – Part 2: The Seller

Guidelines for selling a performance horse in today's market
by Allison Trimble

Last month we began our study of the current performance horse market from the buyer’s perspective. This month we address the same points, but from the seller’s position. It is important to understand the motivations and considerations of both parties to be able to navigate your way in this market.

Why
Establish why you are selling your horse. Do you need to cut costs, or do you just not want this particular horse? Are you looking to trade in for a new horse? Examining these things will determine how motivated you are to sell. If it is financial, you need to be extremely willing to take any reasonable offer. If you are simply planning to use the sale money to buy a different horse, you may be willing to hold out a little longer until you find a buyer willing to give the price you are asking. Clearly identify what type of seller you are before you put your horse for sale. You don’t have to tell anyone else, but be realistic about your situation or you may lose a buyer because you were unclear about your own needs.

Where
Ask your trainer to spread the word with his/her friends. Even if you don’t have a horse in training, call any trainers you know and let them know your horse is for sale. If a trainer sells a horse for you, expect to pay a 10% commission on the sale price.

The asking price is going to make a difference where you advertise; you wouldn’t advertise a $50,000 horse on craigslist, and you may not choose to post a $1500 horse on reinersworld.com. I have done quite a bit of advertising through the Northwest Horse Source, and I advertise a lot on the Internet through dreamhorse and craigslist, as well as through local classified papers. One thing you might not know is that many associations, such as the NWRA and NWRCHA, offer free classified advertisement for members on their websites. Make good decisions about the amount you spend advertising so you don’t break yourself before you can get your horse sold, but remember that you may need to spend a little to reach the right buyers.

Price
I encourage all sellers to do the same market research I recommended for buyers. Look at any horses for sale that you think are similar to your horse and use those prices as a starting point, especially those that have recently sold. This will give you a good feel for the market value of a horse of a particular caliber. If you want to move your horse fast, price it slightly below the median.

Expect that most people will offer you less than you are asking. You don’t want to overprice your horse, but don’t price it so low that you have nowhere to go. If you are unsure about the price and are flexible, you have the option to list the horse as "private treaty," just keep in mind that this often says to the buyer that the horse is priced very high.

You always have the option of taking your horse to a trainer for an opinion on what your horse is worth and how best to market that particular horse. If nothing else, it will give you a read on what other people’s trainers will be telling them about your horse. It may cost you something, but could save you months of floundering around and advertising the wrong way or at the wrong price.

Sales Tactics
If you are going to be advertising on the Internet or in print ads, never underestimate the importance of a good video and pictures. It is the same as anything else: if it doesn’t grab someone’s eye, there are just too many other horses to pick through. I also think about what other disciplines my horse may excel in and advertise in those circles as well. I have sold reiners and cowhorses as barrel, trail, dressage and 4-H horses. Decide what makes your horse special or different from other horses and show that in your description.

If you don’t like your horse, try not to let that seep out of your pores. It will scare buyers off, and honestly, your horse may just not like you and would make someone else the horse of their dreams. If you need to sell your horse badly for financial reasons, try to disguise that as well. You may choose to take a low price for the horse because of your situation, but you are ensuring a low price if a buyer sniffs out your weakness.

My final words of advice are to respond quickly and professionally to any inquiries. Often, people buy the first horse that fits their needs, and if they have to wait weeks for a video or more information, they are likely to buy from someone who responds more promptly.

Tell me Your Story!
I am always happy to give specific advice on horses if any of you need some help. In January, I want to focus on you, the readers. Send a picture of you and your horse and a brief answer to the question “What about your horse experience makes you feel like you are On the Plus Side?” I want to know why you play in this game, or why you would like to. Tell me your story at coastalequine@aol.com and I will publish some of them in the January edition. I look forward to hearing from you!

~ Allison

(Editor's note: postal mail entries may be sent to NWHS at PO Box 717, Blaine, WA 98231 and will be forwarded to Allison)

The New Horse Market, Part 1: The Buyer

Getting great value in today's horse market
by Allison Trimble

In every arena and on every trail across America, talk about the state of the horse market is buzzing. With the rising costs of hay, bedding and supplies combined with the status of the slaughter horse market, there are more of our expensive four-legged friends running around than ever. People are giving away horses left and right just to avoid feeding through another winter. For many years I have made my living selling horses. I have also bought many horses to add to my program. I would like to share with you some of what I take into consideration when buying or selling a horse. This month we will focus on the buyer’s perspective, specifically in the performance horse field.

Why?
The days of buying a horse for no reason are long gone; the cost of ownership is just too high. Outlining your needs as an owner will help you weed out the horses that do not fit. Do not consider any horse because it is a “good deal.” There is a reason that someone else does not want to spend an average of $400-$500 a month caring for a horse, regardless of its ability or use. The cost of owning a show horse is significantly higher, so it is very important to find a horse that will fit your performance needs.

Where?
The Internet is the horse shopping mall of today’s marketplace. This is a great place to start looking, but it can also allow you to waste a lot of time looking at a bunch of horses you don’t know anything about. This can lead you to the right horse, but can also lead you very far astray. There is a strong chance that you are not getting the whole story and can end up with a horse that is a black hole of problems.

It is always best to buy a horse that you have some connection to, whether it is through a friend, recommended by a trainer, or is a horse you have seen in the show pen. Unless you are very experienced, stay away from going to horse sales. Horse sales at special events, such as the futurities, can showcase exceptional horses, but most local and regional horse sales are the last stop for a horse that someone has not been able to sell through other venues. It is also very easy to get caught up in the sale atmosphere and buy a horse that you don’t really want or need.

Price
You know your budget, but these are times when you need to really assess your price range carefully. People often have a preset notion of what they are willing to pay for a horse. Experience has taught me to take in more than just the purchase price when making my decisions. This is a good time to shop in a price range higher than normal for many reasons. If you shop carefully for the right horse, every month that you don’t buy some three-legged donkey you are adding $500 to your purchase price (based on savings in feed and care). It is also a time that many people are more flexible on their asking price --every month they don’t own that horse, they save $500. If it is a show horse in training, monthly costs can be as much as $1000. That is a $1000 swing in your price range each month. Buyers are in the driver's seat in the market right now, so instead of buying a $3500 horse for $1500, take your $3500 and shop in the $7500 range. You may end up paying $5500 in the end, but you have jumped up significantly in the quality of horse you are riding.

Particularly with performance horses, if the price sounds too good to be true, it probably is. With all the money that goes into training and showing a horse, if someone says they are selling a dead broke, finished cowhorse for $6500, that equation is out of balance. Before you start shopping, do an analysis of the market. Look through the Internet sites for horses that you think would fit your needs, including any that have recently sold, and then find a median price for those horses. This will give you a good feel for the market value for a horse of a particular caliber.

Purchase Tactics
There is a limit to how much a seller will take off the asking price. You will have to feel out how motivated each seller is. Remember that sellers may be standoffish at first because most people are window shoppers. Don’t talk price until after you have done the test driving and research. Instead of asking “What is your bottom price?” or “Is your price firm?” decide the price you are willing and able to pay. If a horse you really like is advertised at $10,000 and there is nothing other than the price at issue, a good approach is, “I will give you $8000 for Molly and I can get you a cashier’s check and pick her up in two days.” If the seller says, “Boy, $8500 is really our bottom price,” then you have the option to stay firm or meet that price. Generally, people are more willing to take less if it happens in a very timely manner.

Most of us do not have large amounts of cash lying around. Don’t let this stop you from having the show horse of your dreams. This is also a market in which people may consider taking payments on a horse when they normally wouldn’t. If there is a strong contract, insurance on the horse, and a large down payment, many people will be willing to get out from under their monthly expenses. I will caution that if you are in a payment situation, you should not expect the seller to take any amount off the asking price.

With all of the uncertainty in the economy, it is easy to feel apprehensive about being a horse owner. My advice is to look at it from another angle: this is the best time in history to buy a really nice horse at a fraction of what it cost to make it!

Making it Through the Winter

Ways to tighten your purse strings this winter
by Allison Trimble

We are all feeling the pinch with the rising costs of supplies. I am going to try to break down for you the ideas I have come up with for keeping myself afloat this winter. Hopefully, they will help you too.

Feed: Alfalfa prices are hovering around $300 a ton, and grass and timothy prices are right in there as well. That is approximately 150% of where we were just four months ago, and there is speculation that it could climb again by winter. A really important aspect of managing feed is to weigh it. Alfalfa in particular can be challenging to estimate poundage. A flake from one bale can be vastly different from a flake from another bale. Wasting feed when hay is $20 a bale is like throwing money on the ground.

This winter I am experimenting with shopping for local grass hay. I will continue to feed my show horses alfalfa, but at a lower poundage, and I am planning to feed a lower quality hay to broodmares and pasture ornaments, but will increase each horse's grain. Per pound, a complete grain (check with your feed company for options) offers more nutritional value and you can feed a lot of it without having adverse effects. Another option is alfalfa cubes. There is little waste and it is easy to calculate the appropriate poundage.

Bedding: Shavings prices are at an all-time high. With home construction declining, shavings as a by-product are expensive and hard to come by, often requiring a six-week wait for a load. I use pelleted bedding in my stalls because there is minimal waste, it requires little storage space, and it is easy to handle. If you buy by the pallet, you save 20-50 cents a bag. I also have to take into account labor for stall cleaning. Pelleted stalls take half the time to clean and have half the wasted bedding. This saves money in labor and in having my manure pile hauled off.

Regardless of the bedding material you use, it is important to have matted stalls. Matting allows you to use minimal bedding material.

Boarding: Boarding fees have increased this year for those who keep their horses away from home. One option that can dramatically cut costs is self care. Many facilities offer self care board, which is where you pay for use of the stall, arena and shavings, but are required to provide and administer your own feed, watering and stall cleaning. A great way to make this possible is to find a group of friends and work out a feeding and stall cleaning schedule. This can easily save you a couple hundred dollars a month.

Shoeing: Hoof care is so important for a performance horse, but can be very costly. Spending between $80 and $150 every eight weeks can be daunting if you have more than one horse. If you are not showing for six months, talk to your farrier about pulling shoes and just keeping your horse trimmed during that time. Most horses will go barefoot just fine, especially in the winter if you are looking at only occasional riding time. I pulled shoes off of a couple of horses that I am just keeping legged up, and I know that has saved me a lot.

Buy In Bulk: Though it is more expensive per shot, buying in bulk can greatly reduce your costs. In the last few years I have found ways to buy grain, pellets, hay, wormer, and vaccines in bulk. I know that you are thinking, “But Allison, you are a crazy person and have way too many horses. I only have three horses and wouldn’t need that much!” Both points are true, but here is where I emphasize teamwork: if you get together with a group of friends and shop as a cooperative, you can get a bulk discount and divide the cost amongst you. You will be surprised how much money you can save this way. When I changed from buying grain by the pallet to having it delivered to a silo, I saved over $600 a month.

Sale Shopping and Recycling: I know most people are conscious about buying things on sale, but the Internet has made sale shopping even easier. Protective boots, wormer, winter blankets--you name it and it can be found online at a closeout cost. When you are looking to buy mats, feeders, or any other horse supplies, a great place to look locally is on craigslist (search for your nearest major city on craigslist.org). Under the farm and garden section you can find hay, supplies, tack and any other component of your horse operation you can think of. If you need something, you can post an ad with a price you are willing to pay-- someone almost always has exactly what you are looking for.

I would love to do an article full of readers' inventive ideas to combat the damage the economy is doing to the horse industry. Let’s hear your voice on this matter. It is time to band together and get through this as a team!

On a more personal note, I have opted to drop my non-professional status, so there is now the opportunity for this column to address training issues. Drop me a line, guys--I really would love to hear from you! coastalequine@aol.com

Showing on a Budget

Cost effective solutions to combat this crazy economy and keep you in the show pen!
by Allison Trimble

The number one issue in the horse industry right now is the exponentially rising cost of everything: supplies, hay, fuel, grain, bedding and entry fees, just to name a few. Personally, I am freaking out about the winter, so now I am devoting a lot of time to budgeting and trying to find ways to cut costs. My hay has gone up 150%, my bedding 140%, and fuel prices make it all but impossible to head down the road to shows. This is the first article in a series focused on staying afloat in the horse industry during these financially hard times. It seems that this is a conversation I am often having with fellow non pros, trainers and owners at horse shows, and I want to share some tips to help manage the cost of showing while still allowing you to go out and have fun.

1.) Define your goals: Why are you showing? Is it to improve your abilities? To go for year-end awards or points in a certain association? To increase the value of your horse? Do you want to go and have a good time with friends? Answering these questions will help you do a more specific cost/benefit analysis. If you want to chase AQHA points, it would be best to try hitting shows that have the largest number of entries and are closest to home. There is no reason to haul across the state to gain one AQHA point. This also allows you to minimize fuel and maximize stall fees, plus you'll have the best shot at the most points. If you want to go compete and have fun, maybe this is a good year to look at some local associations, such as the Northwest Reining Association, where you can have fun at a nominal cost with few additional show expenses beyond the entry fees. In any situation, look closely at all costs and fees and weigh them against the benefits.

2.) Fuel: The fuel situation is just ridiculous. I have been trying to get Bob’s Burger and Brew in Ferndale to put up a hitching post so I can ride my horse to town. The best suggestion I have here is to find a friend or two that you can haul with and split the gas. It is always good to find a friend with a fuel efficient truck! Working together with other horse people on a few of these aspects is going to make a big difference to your budget.

3.) Overnight Stays: Bunking up with friends is a great way to save a buck. Hotel rooms range from about $75 to $125 per night at most shows, so splitting that up will help. I need my space when I show, so recently I traded in my older trailer on a used living quarters trailer that was in really good shape, and now I have a monthly payment of about $250. It is convenient at the shows and saves me a lot of money in hotel bills. It is also convenient because I can pack food with me and save money by not having to eat out.

4.) Bedding: Often, the shavings at horse shows are expensive and small. I recommend taking three bags of pelleted bedding (under $15 total cost) per stall. If you water it, this will put a base on a concrete or dirt stall floor. Then put one or two bags of shavings on top of the pellets. The pellets will stick a little better and the shavings will give softness. Most of my horse shows are weekend shows, so I don’t have to worry about a long term plan, but the stalls usually require a lot of bedding to keep the horses sound. At my last show, shavings were $12 a bag and it took six bags to bed the stall well enough so that my horse wasn’t lying on a big block of concrete.

5.) Entries: If you know you are going to a show, pre-enter. This will save you $25 to $50 per horse in late fees, and that really adds up. Make sure you make your cattle reservations on time. That can be a $50 to $100 late fee in addition to the late entry fee. You don’t usually have to send a check at the time of entry; if you do, you can just enter one class up front, and enter the rest of the classes when you get to the show and still avoid the late fees. Look closely at the entry to see if there is a jackpot on the class, such as in AQHA reining classes. You aren’t always required to enter and pay the jackpot fee, and that can be between $10 and $50 at weekend shows.

6.) Show Clothing and Tack: This is a place where you can shop pretty frugally. If you are in need of show clothes or saddles, ask around to see if anyone has any used chaps, shirts, or other equipment. A few friends of mine and I have swapped around clothes, and I have sold some chaps for very reasonable prices. A lot of people are getting out of showing horses, and that is a great time to pick up their old stuff at a killer price.

I want to thank all of the readers who have taken the time to email me, ask questions and give input. This is a scary time for a lot of horse owners, and I would love to hear ideas from any of you on what you have done to adjust your horsey budgeting.

Feeding the Performance Horse

by Allison Trimble

With seemingly endless rising expenses, it is a constant struggle to find a way to cut costs without sacrificing the quality of your horse’s care. No matter the scale of your horse operation, everyone is feeling the need to cut back. One aspect of horse care that is vital, but in which prices are drastically skyrocketing, is your horses’ feeding program. In a high demand sport, the fuel your horse gets is integral to your success. To bring some light to the topic, I asked a few questions of my feed representative, Jennifer Kilpatrick of Nutrena, to streamline some information that might help you with your feed program and your budget.

How does a horse owner determine the feed needs of each horse?
When trying to address the needs of an individual horse, you first need to determine what your goals are. Goals such as overall appearance, performance levels, etc., are important in developing your feeding program. Secondly, and most importantly, you need to feed a program that is geared toward the life stage and work level of your horse. For example: is your horse a broodmare, a growing or young horse, geriatric, performance or pleasure, or stallion? This is important because the nutritional needs vary within each group. Furthermore, it is necessary to take note and be aware of any special needs or specific metabolic needs your horse may have.

What kind of specific needs are there for cow horses/performance horses?
This type of horse has an increased demand for energy stores and output compared to many other groups of horses. Not only do they typically work harder as far as energy output on a daily basis, but when being shown they are required to perform at a much higher level than in other sports. In order to sustain in these high demand conditions, horses require increased caloric intake as well as higher levels of vitamins and minerals. The key to managing a feeding program that fulfills these needs is increasing carbohydrate intake. It is crucial, though, to carefully control these levels for optimum muscle glycogen repletion after competition.

With the drastic increases in feed costs, what advice can you give for minimizing feeding costs without sacrificing quality?
Every horse person out there is feeling the pinch. When it comes to providing an adequate feeding program that is cost effective, it becomes important for the horse owner to be aware of what they are feeding and how it is "performing." That is, what is it doing for your horse? A first step is easy: monitor your horses' body condition score, and feed for a goal of attaining a score of five. Body condition scoring involves measuring body fat, a visual examination and working with your horse to evaluate its overall appearance and condition. The primary areas to focus on are the neck, withers, crease down the back, tail head, ribs and behind the shoulder. The scale is one through nine, with one being a completely emaciated horse, five being ideal as ribs cannot be seen but easily felt, and nine being obese with fatty pads or ridges in the focus areas.

Commonly, I meet horse owners who are feeding basic grains and spending on supplements to fill in the gaps. The advice that I give is aimed to educate the owner in the cost per head per day. When feeding a grain product that requires the horse owner to purchase extra supplements, the overall cost per day increases. Conversely, if the owner were to feed a complete feed pellet that contained daily requirements of fiber, vitamins and minerals, supplements would not be necessary. Thus, the cost per head per day goes down significantly. In addition, studies have shown that when feeding high fiber feed, hay/grass intake can be decreased as the need for forage intake is lessened. Shopping for good quality hay can be very difficult as well, but paying a little more for quality will greatly benefit the horse in many ways. Lastly, it is also very important to "label shop." As a horse owner and consumer, you want to get the biggest bang for your buck. Some feed/supplement combos cost more and still don’t provide the daily requirements for the horse. An owner can find a fortified feed that provides more nutrition, costs less, and is much more convenient.

Jennifer Kilpatrick hails from Jackson Hole, Wyoming. After completing her undergraduate degree in Animal Science and a Masters in Integrated Resource Management, she began her career with Cargill, Inc in 2003. Because she is both a horse owner and an equine nutrition consultant, she can understand the needs from both perspectives. She has also supported many clubs and organizations by giving presentations on various nutritional topics. You can see her at most of the shows in the Northwest as a Nutrena representative and occasional competitor.