Stretch your Feed Dollar

Conserve feed and water with the right equipment
by Martin Wilke

Unless you've been hiding out for the last year, you are well aware of the financial changes and challenges in our country. The cost of fuel is affecting every facet of our lives. I just came from the supermarket where I was replenishing my stock of frozen pizzas (because my skills in the kitchen range all the way from A to B) and was amazed at how much the cost had gone up in the last several weeks…so much so that I asked about it. I got a one-word explanation: fuel. I hadn't thought about that applying to my Thursday night dinner, but I've come to accept that it impacts all aspects of our, and our horses', lives.

We are powerless to change the fuel prices, but we can make our hay and feed stretch a bit further. The way we do this is to make sure our horses waste as little as possible.

Less Waste = Fewer $$ insert photo V Rack
We know that horses are grazers. When possible, they like to put the hay where they are designed to eat—on the ground. Many feeders unintentionally allow this to happen by having the bars too far apart, letting the horse pull a flake of hay out and drop it on the ground where it can be walked on and soiled.

I don't know how many times I've been told that manufacturers should move the bars on the V rack closer together, but manufacturers must weigh all decisions carefully. Adding three or four more bars to the V rack will raise the price. So how can we make it harder for horses to waste hay?

One simple, inexpensive way is to buy a cattle panel at any farm store or co-op. A cattle panel is a welded rod panel about 50" high and 16' long. The openings are about 6" by 8". You can cut two pieces the size of the V rack and slide them into the rack so each piece rests on the inside of the bars. This gives you horizontal bars as well as the vertical bars on the rack. With smaller openings, it's harder to get large flakes of hay. Trust me, they'll still get all the hay they need or want, but they'll waste much less.

Also, if you use a bunk feeder with a hayrack on top or stall feeders (corner or wall-type) with a grain tray on the bottom, you'll catch the leaves and small pieces that drop down.

How and where you feed will depend on the way in which your horses interact. It may be possible for you to save by putting a single bunk on a fence line so the food can be accessed from either side, but even with two separate pens, if your horses are not the best of buddies, they may not be able to use the same bunk.

On the subject of feeding and watering, the best advice is to become an informed consumer. You'll find that feeders fall into three basic categories: bunks, wall (or fence) feeders and round bale feeders. The latter type is available for cattle and horses. The biggest difference is that the horse feeder doesn't have a top ring around it. This is good because it won't rub hair off the horse's neck and bad because it takes a lot of strength out of the feeder. Many horse owners like the round bale feeders for their ability to feed multiple horses, but they do allow more waste than a V- rack.

Clean, Fresh Water is a Must
Like feeding, there are a number of ways to water horses. They've been drinking out of lakes and streams for thousands of years, so many manufacturers make waterers that keep the water as low as is practical.

Perhaps the simplest method of watering a horse, other than a stream, is a simple poly or galvanized stock tank. Personally, I prefer poly tanks. They come in all sizes, don't rust or corrode, and the new tanks have UV inhibitor in the poly to prevent degradation by sunlight, all of which cut replacement costs. One manufacturer makes a 30 gallon tank that is small, light and easy to move. It has a float valve inside; just attach a garden hose to the recessed coupler, and as the horse drinks, the tank refills.

A word of caution here: don't use a ball-type waterer for horses. In these, a foam-filled ball floats on the surface of the water. An animal quickly learns that it has to push the ball down to access the water. This is a good idea in that it keeps the water cool in summer and ice-free in winter, but horses have a tendency to paw the water. If the horse sticks his foreleg into the waterer, the ball prevents him from removing it. This causes panic and no good will come of it. insert photo Ball waterer, Caption: Ball waterers are fine for cattle, but can be dangerous for horses.

Horse ownership brings with it great responsibility. We owe it to our stock to see that they have good, nutritious feed and fresh, clean water. A little study will show you what equipment to provide for your animals, and in these times, a bit more study will show you how to stretch your feed dollar as far as you can. Contact the companies who manufacture the equipment directly through their websites. They can put you in touch with local representatives who will help you decide what will work best for you and your horses.

Martin Wilke spent 25 years traveling the Pacific Northwest as a district manager for Behlen Country (http://www.behlencountry.com/).

Boarding Your Horse

Save money and time with sound boarding decisions
by Angel S. Gnau

In these times of high feed and fuel costs, horse owners may find themselves rethinking their boarding situation. If you keep your horses at home, you are at least one step ahead, but if you do board your horses, there is hope!

Consider finding a boarding stable closer to your home to save on gas and time if your current stable is more than a few miles from you. Maybe you can save money on boarding costs if you do some of the work yourself, like cleaning your own stall. Some boarding stables offer flexible options for feeding, cleaning and turnout. Perhaps you can barter for part of your board by trading work or services, giving lessons, cleaning, feeding, babysitting or even house-sitting when the owners are away.

A Change for the Better
If you are considering switching stables, what should you be looking for? The obvious criteria are location, cost and goals, not necessarily in that order, but you don’t want to give up quality care for a lower cost. To get started, make a list of what is most important to you. Don’t forget to add a list of questions to ask the barn owner or manager.

A few key things to look for once you arrive at a boarding facility:

First impressions
Are the stables and grounds clean and organized? Are the horses happy and healthy? Do the workers seem content? Do the horse owners? Upon closer inspection, is the entire facility in good repair and free of missing boards, protruding nails, wires or objects lying around? Is there a fly control system? Is there good drainage for wash stalls and around the barn? Are the stalls or paddocks roomy enough for your horse to be comfortable and lie down? Are stall floors level or are there holes and dips?

· Feeding
Ask what type of feed is provided: alfalfa, grass, timothy or oat hay, or a combination. The type of hay offered will depend on your area and what is readily available. Don’t be afraid to ask to see the feed supply to check for good quality. Do they feed cubes or pellets instead of hay? Will they feed grain or supplements that you provide? Are salt licks offered? What times are the horses fed, and are they fed twice a day, three times a day, or some other schedule? In the wild, horses graze all day long, eating smaller amounts. Today’s horses often live in stables and rely on cut hay, generally consuming more feed at one time. Eating too much rich food per meal can cause colic or laminitis if not monitored carefully.

· Cleaning
What is the stall cleaning schedule? Is it provided or are the horse owners responsible for their own cleaning? (Here is one of those barter points mentioned earlier.) How often are the paddocks cleaned? What type of bedding is used? This might be important if your horse has allergies or a tendency to eat the bedding. Do the floors have rubber mats or deep enough bedding to prevent sores? A clean, well-bedded stall is important to your horse’s health as well as keeping the facility smelling good. Are the caretakers respectful of the horse while cleaning?

· Horse care and turnout
Does the facility offer turnout or pasture time? Are they willing to groom your horse (expect added fees) if you are unable to provide care during an illness or absence? Are worming and basic health care provided, or is it up to the individual owner to provide these services? In a herd situation, are the horses all wormed and immunized at the same time?

· Record keeping
Does the barn manager keep records on each horse, including special needs, vet, dental, and farrier care and general information about the horse? Is anyone but the owner of the horse allowed access in your absence? Attention to monthly billing and details concerning each individual horse is a good indication of the commitment of the stable owner and ultimately, the care your horse will receive.

· Riding interests
You will probably feel more comfortable at a barn where other riders share similar riding styles and interests to yours. If pleasure and trail riding is your thing, look for facilities that have trails adjacent to or within a short distance of the barn. You may not want to board at a big show barn if you are only interested in pleasure riding. If you are a hunter or jumper show rider, you will want to find a barn that caters to English riding and has jumps available. Make sure you will be able to use the jumps, and that they are not just for the trainer to use.

· Hours of operation and safety
Inquire about the hours of operation and security. What is their policy on guests and flexibility concerning open hours? It may just be a matter of notifying the barn manager in advance if you plan to have visitors or if someone will be coming in to care for your horse if you are ill or otherwise indisposed. Are signs posted concerning smoking and safety? Are there posted rules and regulations on the property? Are the rules too strict and confining or too lenient?

· Boarding contract
Ask if there is a boarding contract and if you can have one to take home and read. Having an agreement helps establish what is expected of the boarder and barn owner, helping to avoid any misunderstandings. It also shows a measure of professionalism and commitment to the running of a horse boarding operation.

Take the time to research each facility thoroughly. Get to know the owners, managers and workers. After all, you are entrusting your best friend to their care. You want to be sure to make the right decision for you and your horse.


Angel Gnau is a certified equine appraiser and consultant, managing her business, “Pacific Equine Appraisal & Consultation” in Portland, Oregon. Angel appraises all breeds and disciplines, offering expert witness testimony in the equine field and consultation in all equine matters. She is available nationwide. Her background comes from more than 30 years in the horse industry as a professional trainer and consultant. She is also a freelance writer of horse-related articles. Contact Angel at (503) 684-2097, (800) 484-9538 x 4344, or by email at: angel.gnau@verizon.net.

Change Can Be Good

by Deb Taber

Like our horses and most of our other animal companions, we humans tend to balk at change. It helps if we're introduced to new concepts slowly and allowed time to adjust. So while I'm awfully excited about some of the changes going on at NWHS, I know there are readers who may toss their manes, stomp the ground and say, "But I liked it the old way!"

Well, take your time. Grab an oatmeal cookie and settle in. Northwest Horse Source, the magazine, remains pretty much the same. Northwest Horse Source online, however, is changing.

We invite you to explore our new website. Some of it remains the same, but many of your favorite features, such as articles, news, Ask the Experts and The Cyber Saddle weblog, have been updated to make them easier to navigate and more interactive.

What's New
· Use the site to comment on articles
· Better search function
· Find horse supplies and services on our Equine Neigh-bor map (coming soon)
· Find locations that offer NWHS
· Enlarge article photos for a better look
· Video coming soon!

What Stays Familiar
· The Equine Marketplace
· The events calendar
· Old articles still hosted at their old homes—no need to change your bookmarks
· Everything's still easy to access at www.nwhorsesource.com
There's more of both the old and the new, so check them out at www.nwhorsesource.com. See the links in the sidebar of the home page to learn more about us and get tutorials on how to get the most out of the new site. You, our readers, are the reason for the redesign. We hope you enjoy it.

The Basics of Backing, part 2: the intermediate horse

Training for a straight and light back
by Pat Wyse and Sue Muir

If you missed the first part of this series in the August issue of NWHS, visit our online archive at http://www.nwhorsesource.com/, where you can read and comment on all of the August issue articles.

Once a horse will back eight or ten steps relatively easily, you are ready to begin refining the maneuver by developing straightness, lightness, and speed. The horse should already know how to move his hindquarters away from the rider’s leg (perform a turn on the forehand). If so, you can begin teaching the horse to back straight…by teaching him to back crooked! Why? Because all horses will, at times, back off to one side. To correct that problem, the rider must teach the horse to guide as he backs. If the rider works only on straightness and not turning while backing, then he will lack an important skill for correcting faulty backups.

Circles and Serpentines
To teach the horse to back to the right, tip his nose a little to the left, begin the backup, then add left leg near the back cinch in the form of light bumps, increasing the strength of the bumps until he begins to move his hindquarters to the right. As was done in early training, give a complete release when the correct response is attained. Then work on backing to the left. As before, work on this for just a few minutes each day. After a number of lessons, the horse should be able to back a smooth serpentine, circle, or other pattern. Be patient--don’t ask green horses to do these exercises with any speed, as they can trip and fall backward. Allow plenty of time to develop skill and coordination.

The leg or spur may be used to help push the hindquarters over.

Keeping it Light
Now the horse needs to learn to be light and responsive in the back. The trick to this is to be very soft in the beginning of the backup, then reinforce for an insufficient effort. Most people find it hard to comprehend what “very soft” is. It means to start much lighter than you think the horse is capable of feeling. Good trainers will do nothing more than lift the reins to begin – without actually contacting the horse’s mouth.

Early in training, the horse will not react to the initial signal at all, but then we increase the pressure until he responds. This increase is done fairly quickly, but must be smooth. If the rider jerks, the horse will become defensive or fearful rather than learning an appropriate response. Once again, fully release when the horse reacts correctly. As lightness improves, add speed. Envision yourself squeezing water slowly from a sponge: start soft and increase the pressure until the desired results occur.

When the horse willingly steps back from the bridle, he is ready to learn to quicken the reaction he already knows. This is accomplished by using leg to excite the horse. Remember to keep the bridle light. Use leg, not bridle, to increase speed. (Exception: when the horse gets “stuck,” use the bridle to get him started again, then immediately return to a light bridle.)

Accelerating the Back
There are two options for using leg to accelerate the back: up by the shoulder or well back near the rear cinch. Different horses may react better to one location or the other. The shoulder position is very useful for horses that evade the bit by dropping the head or over-bridling. The back cinch position is appropriate for the finished horse. Most competitive disciplines don’t allow legs to be used forward of the cinch, so riders showing in those sports may use the forward position in training, but must have the competition-level horse trained to respond to leg behind the cinch.

When using leg, timing and technique are both important. At this stage, the horse should be light enough in the bridle that, rather than noticeably tipping the nose, all the rider needs to do is squeeze the primary rein tighter than the secondary, alternating from side to side every few steps. Signal with your leg on the same side as the primary rein by softly applying calf first, then reinforce by bumping with or rolling the spur. As you alternate the primary rein, also alternate the leg you use. It isn’t necessary to use leg or spur each time the rein is squeezed, just often enough to get some “try” from the horse. Incorporate a regular rhythm for using the leg (e.g., step-step-step-bump right leg, step-step-step-bump left leg, step-step-step-bump right leg…). When you feel an increase in the tempo of the back, immediately release all pressure to reward the horse.

Good leg-hand coordination is critical when increasing speed and degree of difficulty in the back. Although this is a challenging skill for most riders, it is essential to prevent rearing when increasing demands on the horse. When using leg or spur, the rider’s hand must stay soft and light on the bridle, regardless of whether the leg is used strongly or lightly. Human instinct causes riders to want to do things with the whole body - if they kick hard, they naturally want to pull hard, too. It requires skill, awareness, and practice to negate this instinct and keep the hands light at all times.

During this stage of training, a few problems will inevitably arise. If the horse begins to go crooked, use repeated bumps, along with primary rein on the side he curves toward, until he straightens. If an intermediate horse refuses, go back to beginner steps rather than escalating to a major fight. Reward the horse for small improvements. It shouldn’t take long to return him to his previous level. If he freezes up in a serious refusal, just push his hip over to “break him loose,” as described last month. Again, avoid the big fight, and don’t worry about minor setbacks. They happen to every horse many times during the course of training.

September Spotlight on the News

FITS Introduces Navy: "The New Black" for Fall 2008!
Fun In The Saddle, Inc. (FITS), makers of the most technical and innovative riding breeches and apparel on the market today, has added a new color, navy, to their original All Season FITS PerforMAXTM full seat breech line. FITS fans have been clamoring for new colors and the new navy is right on target. It reads blue, but is dark enough to function as (in fashion terms) “the new black.” Riders from all disciplines are choosing FITS breeches because of their comfort, support and overall technology advantages over other breeches.

FITS products are available at fine tack and riding stores and online through the FITS valued dealer network at www.FITSRiding.com. The new navy color will be available September, 2008. Remember, whatever your discipline, wear FITS for the ride of your life™.
----------
The Best Arabian, Half-Arabian and Anglo-Arabian Sport Horses Strut Their Stuff at Sport Horse Nationals
The Sixth Annual Arabian and Half-Arabian Sport Horse Nationals come to the Idaho Horse Park in Nampa, Idaho September 23-27, 2008. This event consists of five days of some of the best Arabian, Half-Arabian and Anglo-Arabian dressage, hunter/jumper, carriage driving, sport horse under saddle and sport horse in-hand horses the Arabian breed has to offer. The combination of the Nampa landscape and these beautiful horses should not be missed. Come join the Arabian Horse Association and exhibitors from all over the country for the Progressive Barn Party—complete with wine and live entertainment—the shopping expo and a special Saturday evening performance. Admission is free and the public is encouraged to come and enjoy being part of a special tradition.
--------------
The Saddle Club™ Girls are Back!
The fun begins September 2 on TVOKids!

Millions of kids have been waiting for the new adventures of Carole, Stevie and Lisa--the girls who formed the Saddle Club--and their favorite horses, Starlight, Belle and Prancer. Now, their wait is over! Series 3: The Saddle Club Rides Again! will premiere Tuesday, September 2nd at 6 p.m. on TVOKids (check your listings for local times).

The half-hour live action series, co-produced by Crawford Productions Pty Ltd and Protocol Entertainment, Inc., follows the ever-changing world of three 12-year-olds who formed the Saddle Club and vowed to stick together against all odds. Set against the excitement of the horse world, the three girls face plenty of challenges in every episode.

The international hit TV series is based on the popular books by Bonnie Bryant. For more information, visit www.saddleclubtv.com.
-------------------------
Think Pink Chinks at the NRCHA Snaffle Bit Futurity!
The REIN IN CANCER campaign debuted at last year's National Reined Cow Horse Association Snaffle Bit Futurity. Thanks to the generosity of exhibitors, owners and fans, the Think to Wear Pink Day sale of wristbands and silent auction items was a hit, raising a substantial amount for the battle against cancer.

In 2008, REIN IN CANCER returns to the Reno Livestock Events Center September 21 – October 5. This time, there will be more fundraising efforts, including a distinctive pair of chinks.

A specially designed set of commemorative chinks has been donated by Shorty's Caboy Hattery to be raffled off to benefit REIN IN CANCER at the NRCHA Snaffle Bit Futurity. Tickets will be available at the REIN IN CANCER/Shorty's Caboy Hattery booth on the concourse at the Snaffle Bit Futurity. Shorty's is also donating, for the second consecutive year, a special custom-made hat.

To find out more, visit www.nrcha.com.
------------
Amigo BugBuster Fly Sheet from Horseware Ireland and Buzz Off Manufacturing
Product review by Karen Pickering

The BugBuster fly sheet is a unique combination of protective clothing for your horse and a safe, effective fly repellant. The fabric is infused with Buzz Blocker, which is EPA registered to repel flies, ticks and mosquitos. The repellant is odorless, colorless, won't rub off on your horse, and stays effective through 25 washings.

The BugBuster sheet I tried fit very well and had a nice, smooth feel against my horse's skin. It's very resistant to damage and seems to keep the flies and bugs at bay—it even kept the flies away from April's face! The design makes it easy to take on and off. Lots of hooks, but it really stays where it belongs.

I do a lot of horse camping in the mountains, but even the high-altitude bugs didn't bother my horse in the least with the sheet in place. I would recommend this for anyone who wishes to keep flies away without using fly spray all the time.

Learn more at www.horseware.com.

Making it Through the Winter

Ways to tighten your purse strings this winter
by Allison Trimble

We are all feeling the pinch with the rising costs of supplies. I am going to try to break down for you the ideas I have come up with for keeping myself afloat this winter. Hopefully, they will help you too.

Feed: Alfalfa prices are hovering around $300 a ton, and grass and timothy prices are right in there as well. That is approximately 150% of where we were just four months ago, and there is speculation that it could climb again by winter. A really important aspect of managing feed is to weigh it. Alfalfa in particular can be challenging to estimate poundage. A flake from one bale can be vastly different from a flake from another bale. Wasting feed when hay is $20 a bale is like throwing money on the ground.

This winter I am experimenting with shopping for local grass hay. I will continue to feed my show horses alfalfa, but at a lower poundage, and I am planning to feed a lower quality hay to broodmares and pasture ornaments, but will increase each horse's grain. Per pound, a complete grain (check with your feed company for options) offers more nutritional value and you can feed a lot of it without having adverse effects. Another option is alfalfa cubes. There is little waste and it is easy to calculate the appropriate poundage.

Bedding: Shavings prices are at an all-time high. With home construction declining, shavings as a by-product are expensive and hard to come by, often requiring a six-week wait for a load. I use pelleted bedding in my stalls because there is minimal waste, it requires little storage space, and it is easy to handle. If you buy by the pallet, you save 20-50 cents a bag. I also have to take into account labor for stall cleaning. Pelleted stalls take half the time to clean and have half the wasted bedding. This saves money in labor and in having my manure pile hauled off.

Regardless of the bedding material you use, it is important to have matted stalls. Matting allows you to use minimal bedding material.

Boarding: Boarding fees have increased this year for those who keep their horses away from home. One option that can dramatically cut costs is self care. Many facilities offer self care board, which is where you pay for use of the stall, arena and shavings, but are required to provide and administer your own feed, watering and stall cleaning. A great way to make this possible is to find a group of friends and work out a feeding and stall cleaning schedule. This can easily save you a couple hundred dollars a month.

Shoeing: Hoof care is so important for a performance horse, but can be very costly. Spending between $80 and $150 every eight weeks can be daunting if you have more than one horse. If you are not showing for six months, talk to your farrier about pulling shoes and just keeping your horse trimmed during that time. Most horses will go barefoot just fine, especially in the winter if you are looking at only occasional riding time. I pulled shoes off of a couple of horses that I am just keeping legged up, and I know that has saved me a lot.

Buy In Bulk: Though it is more expensive per shot, buying in bulk can greatly reduce your costs. In the last few years I have found ways to buy grain, pellets, hay, wormer, and vaccines in bulk. I know that you are thinking, “But Allison, you are a crazy person and have way too many horses. I only have three horses and wouldn’t need that much!” Both points are true, but here is where I emphasize teamwork: if you get together with a group of friends and shop as a cooperative, you can get a bulk discount and divide the cost amongst you. You will be surprised how much money you can save this way. When I changed from buying grain by the pallet to having it delivered to a silo, I saved over $600 a month.

Sale Shopping and Recycling: I know most people are conscious about buying things on sale, but the Internet has made sale shopping even easier. Protective boots, wormer, winter blankets--you name it and it can be found online at a closeout cost. When you are looking to buy mats, feeders, or any other horse supplies, a great place to look locally is on craigslist (search for your nearest major city on craigslist.org). Under the farm and garden section you can find hay, supplies, tack and any other component of your horse operation you can think of. If you need something, you can post an ad with a price you are willing to pay-- someone almost always has exactly what you are looking for.

I would love to do an article full of readers' inventive ideas to combat the damage the economy is doing to the horse industry. Let’s hear your voice on this matter. It is time to band together and get through this as a team!

On a more personal note, I have opted to drop my non-professional status, so there is now the opportunity for this column to address training issues. Drop me a line, guys--I really would love to hear from you! coastalequine@aol.com

The Lariat: A Great Tool for Every Discipline

Training your own horse, part 3 of 6
by Alice Trindle

As I write this article I am returning from the Celebrate the Horse Expo held in Puyallup, Washington. It was a wonderful gathering of horse folks. Many people there seemed to recognize the importance of continuing education for both horse and rider. However, I was struck by some of the misconceptions within the horse world based simply on semantics and costumes. To see Steve Rother ride his Friesian in a western saddle or me perform with the garrocha but not the traditional Doma Vaquera Spanish regalia may have seemed wrong to some. The reality of the soft, willing, flowing picture and partnership was overlooked. The people who truly understood the demonstrations were those who simply enjoyed the beautiful picture they were witnessing.

This month as we work on training our horses, I’d like to challenge you to pick up an aid that may well be new to you and a fresh addition to your “look”: the lariat.

I have not found another device that so effectively teaches me to develop my feel, learn to multi-task, and just plain have fun – all without needing to know how to build a loop or have any intention of actually roping. I have written previously in NWHS about the benefits of using a lariat (2005 ‘Use of the Lariat’ Clinic #7 www.tnthorsemanship.com/articles), and in the three years since, I have developed an even greater admiration for the positive attributes of this horseman’s tool.

To begin, I highly recommend that you review the information found in the abovementioned article. That way we can treat this article as a continuation, adding some exercises for using the lariat to sensitize your horse to your smallest of intentions. In particular, review the prerequisites below prior to your work in order to keep you and your horse safe. Keep in mind that we are trying to heighten your ability to clearly communicate with the horse so he seeks your leadership in any situation. We are preparing him for the unexpected by simulating situations that can happen on the trail, in the arena, or even on the dressage court: things coming in and out of his vision, items touching all parts of his body, and yielding to pressure rather than pulling against it. These are all important understandings to have cemented into your schooling in order to keep everyone safe.

Use the lariat exercise below to ultimately enhance your relationship with your horse, no matter what the discipline.

Yielding All Four Feet
It is critical for proper hoof care that the horse be willing to give each of his feet without a pull or push. There is no need for cross-ties or restraining devices when the human works with the horse (or mule!) to politely yield his feet. If by chance your horse gets caught in a piece of wire, tangled in vines or wrapped up in a rope, you will be mighty glad that you worked with him to yield to pressure. The ring rope and lariat are excellent tools to help save you from expensive veterinary bills and keep your horse away from a traumatic encounter.

Practice this exercise first on a schooled horse, if at all possible:

Prepare with a ring rope and your horse on a halter lead. Build the loop and place it over the horse's rump. Feed the slack out to make a big loop on the ground behind the horse. Step him back one step over the top of the rope. Next, draw the loop off the rump; magically, it will be around the inside hind foot! Take the slack out of your loop, bringing the ring end snug around the fetlock. Once this is done, follow the photo instructions below.

1. Send the mule forward, just carrying the lariat. Coils should be transferred to the left hand in preparation for halt, which is accomplished by putting pressure on the lariat lead.

2. Be ready to take the pull on the rope across your thighs rather than trying to hold with your hand and arm strength.

3. Wait for the mule to yield the foot without tension. When he does, give immediate reward by putting slack in the lariat.

Once you can accomplish the above maneuvers, work on a halt to a backup. Eventually, you should be able to lead the mule forward, backward, and sideways by his feet.

Note: If the mule had become very bothered, I would have haltered him and brought in a skilled human to assist the mule by working the halter lead while I handled the lariat.

Find more photos, exercises and information, including instructions to create a "horseman's halter," on Alice's website at http://www.tnthorsemanship.com/.

Prerequisite Preparation Reminders
· Prepare yourself to comfortably toss, coil, and swing the lariat.
· Prepare your horse to accept ropes around, under and between all parts of his body and to yield to the ropes' pressure.
· Find a good teacher who is experienced in using a horseman’s lariat to give you guidance, then practice on a schooled horse.
· Double-check that your environment is horse-safe, and that you can extend the lariat the entire distance across the pen.

At the Trailhead

Tips for greener trails, part 1 of a 3-part series
by Alayne Blickle, Horses for Clean Water

Early fall is a great time to hit the trails with cooler temps, fewer bugs and smaller crowds. But even on the trails there are things we horse owners can do to reduce our impact on the environment and take care of the land. Horses for Clean Water recently collaborated with the Snohomish Conservation District (www.snohomishcd.org) to produce a new brochure, Stewards of the Trail, which details ideas for reducing our impact on the urban and suburban land where we ride.

Over the next few months we will highlight some of the information from this brochure. We begin this month with ideas for the start of your ride:

Your Horse
A good trail ride starts with a good horse. Know your horse and be able to anticipate and handle his behaviors. A young horse with a skilled rider can be safely under control, while an older horse with little experience and inadequate horsemanship can be an accident waiting to happen. Accidents happen when a rider tries to force his or her horse through a situation for which the horse is unprepared.

Be sure your horse will stand tied to the trailer, both alone and with other horses. This is necessary so you can properly tack and untack your horse. If your horse paws while tied, he will do damage to the parking area and possibly to your trailer. If he does dig a hole, be sure to fill it before leaving.

Be able to mount and dismount your horse from both sides. If you have to dismount while out on the trail, you may not have an option when it comes time to mount again.

Be sure your horse is properly shod for the conditions of the trail. Broken-down hoof walls and sole bruises can result from improper shoeing.

Be sure your horse has properly fitting tack for the conditions of the trail. A cinch or girth that cuts into a horse’s belly or an ill-fitting saddle can make a horse sore and give him an (understandably!) poor attitude.

Be sure your horse is in good physical shape for the conditions of the trail, such as steep climbs, obstacles, length of the trail and water crossings.

Teach your horse to walk when going up and down hills. An inexperienced horse will want to run, potentially causing erosion. This also isn’t a safe habit for your horse to get into, and walking will help him develop muscle tone and balance.

Know whether your horse will cross obstacles such as a log on the trail or a bridge. Be sure your horse is controllable in case you encounter wild animals, dogs or other trail users.

You
Be prepared for the weather and wear appropriate clothes. Rapid changes in weather can occur, and if you aren’t within distance for a quick return to your vehicle, you could risk getting very cold and/or very wet. Hypothermia can happen quickly, even in the mild Pacific Northwest climate. Consider carrying appropriate rain gear, waterproof gloves and hat, and--especially in the winter--insulated boots. Always carry a coat in case of unexpected bad weather, even in summer.

If you are riding in a hunting area during hunting season or at dusk, be sure to wear blaze-orange reflective gear.

Know the route you are taking, and know when to turn away from unsafe conditions such as deep water or a broken bridge.

Manure Management
Parking lots: Carry a manure fork in your trailer. Take home everything: manure, old hay, spilled bedding. If possible, throw a bucket of water on urine puddles to help dilute it further. Smelly piles of manure and urine attract flies and are not attractive to other riders or users.

On the trail: Teach and then encourage your horses to keep walking when they defecate on the trail. This helps to avoid manure piles. If a group of riders stops for any length of time and there is a buildup of manure, dismount and kick manure around to disperse it.

Next month we will talk about what can be done while you’re on the trail. In November, we’ll finish up with some rules of the road and additional resources. Until then, happy trails!

~Alayne

Sharing Knowledge

by Karen Pickering

A crackling fire, a starlit sky and good friends made it difficult to pull myself away from my recent adventure, but the tools I took from Raye Lochert's weekend clinic will last long after the campfire is cold. Raye coached us on proper trail etiquette, how to pack items necessary for the ride, and techniques for working through issues with your horse while in a group setting. He did an excellent job of leaving all of us with tools to improve our experiences out on the trail. We hope to have him back up here again, but in the meantime you can ask Raye questions through our “Ask the Expert” section of www.nwhorsesource.com. He will personally answer your question, plus we'll post it on the site so everyone can learn from your input.

I encourage you to spend some time reviewing the great ideas all of our writers share every month. Also, don't forget to check out the ads as you look through the magazine. We have many great products and services available here in the Northwest, and you may find the exact item you've been looking for. Whether you keep your horse on your own property or board with a stable or a friend, it’s time to start thinking about your horse's winter home...and this issue brings you the tools you need to do just that.

Thank you for choosing NWHS as a resource for your horse care needs. Please let us know if there is anything else we can bring you. I consider it a privilege to publish this magazine every month, and to meet many of you on the trails or at shows and clinics. I had the chance to do that this past weekend, and for that I'm grateful.

Have a great September and remember to ride!

Quote of the month:
"Only by seeking challenges can we hope to find the best in ourselves."
~Robert Rodriguez

Stretching Pays Off

Do your homework and do the work to get the most out of stretching
by Nicole Lanphear

One of the most important aspects of your horse’s training is his overall health. A huge part of this is the health of his muscles and joints. When used properly, stretches can help ensure flexibility and prevent injury. Stretching improves blood circulation, elongates muscles and helps the horse relax.

Before you start a regular routine of stretching, passively test your horses’ body through slow, relaxed stretches to see if he responds with any pain or compensation. Work on level ground when your horse is relaxed. If your horse backs off, stop stretching. The goal is to improve mobility, but if it is painful, it will be counterproductive.

While horses are much stronger than humans, it doesn’t take a body builder to stretch out a horse. The amount of time spent doing a stretch is more effective than a hard grip or overextension. At the same time, this work can be beneficial to you! Remember last month when we talked about play time? Put on some music and make the stretching exercises a relaxing game for yourself and the horse. If you do other kinds of stretching for yourself, such as yoga, do that first so you are limber and relaxed when you begin your horse's stretching session. Plan on devoting at least five minutes a day to stretching your horse. It isn't a lot, and can save you time later by giving you a horse less prone to illness and injury.
Insert photo Horse1, credit: Lars Sundström

Stretches to Try
Some basic stretches include using a carrot or treat and placing it next to the girth area, bringing the horse’s nose back toward the treat and holding for 10 to 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side. Hold a carrot down between the horse’s front legs, bringing his nose down to his fetlocks. Hold for 10 to 15 seconds. For a more complete set of stretches, talk with your veterinarian and ask him or her specifically how long to hold each stretch for each muscle. There are also plenty of books on equine stretching available. See the sources noted below.

Not all stretching takes place on the ground – transitions in a straight line and a light trot elongate many different muscles. Learning a little bit of basic dressage can help with under saddle stretching. Also, the best time for ground stretching is after a 15 minute warm-up of going through all the gaits.

Concerns
Overstretching is a concern that should not be taken lightly. Many times a stretch can cause hypertension in the spine or flex the spine but not the muscles. Be aware of your horse’s reaction and don’t put all your muscle and might into stretching. If, despite your care, your horse seems to have some soreness after stretching, talk to your vet or other equine health specialist about how best to care for the injury and when to return to your stretching program.

Be calm, steady and diligent in your stretching routine. If you take your time and build your horse's flexibility gradually, the benefits can be enormous.

Sources:
Pros and Cons of Equine Stretching by Michael Baxter
Stretching Exercises for your Horse by Sue M. Copeland
Stretching out the Kinks by Stephanie L. Church

The Colorful Paint Horse

In 1519 the Spanish explorer Hernando Cortes sailed to the New World to find his fame and fortune. Along with his entourage of conquistadors, he brought horses to help his men search the vast land for riches. According to historian Diaz del Castillo, who traveled with the expedition, one of the horses was described as a "pinto" with "white stockings on his forefeet." Another was described as a "dark roan horse" with "white patches." These were the first known recorded descriptions of Paint Horses in the New World.

Each Paint Horse has a particular combination of white and any color of the equine spectrum: black, bay, brown, chestnut, dun, grullo, sorrel, palomino, buckskin, grey or roan. Markings can be any shape or size and located virtually anywhere on the horse's body. Although Paints come in a variety of colors and markings, there are only three specific coat patterns: overo, tobiano and tovero. To be eligible for the regular registry, the horse must also exhibit a minimum amount of white hair over unpigmented (pink) skin.

These colors, markings and patterns, combined with stock-type conformation, athletic ability and agreeable disposition, make the American Paint Horse an investment in quality.

Information excerpted with permission from the American Paint Horse Association's website, www.apha.com. The APHA is the second-largest breed registry in the United States, based on the number of horses registered annually. Pictured: Zippos Sensation, photo provided by APHA.

Top 5 Infectious Diseases

Keep your horse safe on the road and in the barn, part 1 of 2
by R. Paul Schwab, D.V.M.

This month Dr. Sauter and I were asked, “What are the top five infectious diseases to worry about when bringing horses to a show or event?" Tough question.

Several factors need to be considered:
1) Where is the horse going (state, country, distance, etc.)
2) What diseases are prevalent in that region
3) Where are the animals at the event coming from, and
4) What vaccinations has your horse been given and how long ago?

Dr. Sauter and I came up with a long list to choose from:

Influenza
Rhinopneumonitis
Equine Infectious Anemia
Strangles
Salmonella
Potomac Horse Fever
Rabies
West Nile Disease
Vesicular Stomatitis
Ringworm
Lawsonia
Anaplasmosis
Pleuropneumonia
Lyme Disease
MERSA
Botulism
Tetanus
Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis
Misc. Fungal Infections
EPM
Eastern and Western Encephalitis


To narrow down this long list we tried to think of the top five that horses are likely to come into contact with when in a show situation in a specific region. Below are our choices. Next month, part two of this article will discuss prevention and control of these syndromes as well as general disease prevention and health tips for going to events.

Equine Influenza
In Equine Infectious Diseases, author Debra Sellon states, “Influenza is the most frequently diagnosed and economically important cause of viral respiratory disease of the horse.” As in people, Influenza or “flu” is seen throughout the world. The Influenza virus has a very short incubation period with clinical signs occurring within 48 hours post infection. Horses are exposed to the virus via nasal secretions from infected horses or horses still shedding the virus up to a week after clinical disease. The virus can be transmitted not only directly, but also through the air in confined areas (stalls and barns), and it can survive in the environment for 72 hours on moist surfaces. Clinical signs include fever (up to 106°F), clear nasal discharge followed by cloudy discharge within 48-72 hours, coughing, and lethargy. Affected horses usually don’t eat well and may have swollen lymph nodes under the jaw or neck. Other signs may include muscle soreness, secondary pneumonia, and limb swelling. There is no treatment aside from supportive care, anti-inflammatory medications, and antibiotics to prevent or treat secondary bacterial infections.

Equine Herpesvirus
There are two types of Equine Herpesvirus of concern: EHV-1 and EHV-4. Both are capable of causing respiratory disease or Rhinopneumonitis (Rhino). EHV-4 is a common cause of viral respiratory disease in horses, especially in young animals. Affected animals will have a “biphasic” fever that goes up and down, often for several days. Coughing and clear nasal discharge are common, as are secondary bacterial infections. EHV-1 can also cause abortions in pregnant mares and neurologic disease in horses. The neurologic form has gotten recent press because of several outbreaks between 2000 and 2006. Clinical signs of the neurologic form include hind-limb weakness or paralysis, bladder and/or tail paralysis, and recumbency. Unfortunately, horses can hold onto the virus in their nerve ganglia for years, ending up in a lifelong carrier state. This makes control more difficult. Transmission from horse to horse is via direct contact and indirectly from fomites (any agent capable of absorbing and transmitting a disease organism) such as people, tack, and contaminated surfaces. Aborted fetuses, placentas, and fluids are particularly high in the virus.

Strangles
No list would be complete without this one. Strangles is the common name for the infection caused by the bacteria Streptococcus equi. It’s known for the classic abscesses that it causes under the jaw, which swell up and “strangle” the horse. This bacterium is extremely contagious and is spread easily through contact with nasal secretions, whether directly or indirectly from water troughs, tack, or people. Infected horses can shed the bacteria for weeks after clinical disease, and in some cases harbor the bacteria in their guttural pouches and become shedders for life. Clinical signs for Strangles are commonly high fever (104°F) and copious amounts of cloudy white nasal discharge, along with the abovementioned abscesses.

West Nile Virus
I debated whether or not to add this to the list. West Nile virus (WNV) is not very prevalent in Washington, though there have been a number of cases in Eastern Washington, as well as Oregon, Idaho and California. For those traveling with their horses through these and other areas, especially during the summer and fall, there is a higher risk. The disease is caused by a virus that is spread to horses (and people) through mosquitoes. The virus damages the neurologic tissue in the brain and/or spinal cord, causing symptoms such as extreme lethargy, depression, difficulty eating, and difficulty walking. Thirty percent of unvaccinated horses that get infected with WNV will die.

Everything Else/Honorable Mentions
We couldn’t quite decide on the last disease to put on this list. There are several that could fit here, depending on where you live. Eastern and Western Equine Encephalitis are of concern in the Southeast; Potomac Horse Fever is of concern on the East Coast. Lawsonia intercellularis is a bacterial disease that causes severe diarrhea in young horses, especially those stressed by weaning or traveling. And, of course, Equine Infectious Anemia is the viral disease that we test for with a Coggins Test for health certificates. It is not extremely common, but the equine community and federal and state governments have worked hard to keep it so.

It’s best to talk to local event officials or veterinarians to help decide which diseases are of more concern for a particular area. Check back with us next month for tips on disease prevention at shows and events.

It's Not Just About the Ribbons by Jane Savoie

Book review by Karyn "K.C." Cowdrey

A follow-up to Savoie's early work, That Winning Feeling!, in which she first introduces the equestrian to the powerful tool of sports psychology, It’s Not Just About the Ribbons is not your average horsemanship book. Instead, this book focuses on how to tap into the power of our minds to overcome obstacles in riding due to mental traps we impose on ourselves, such as insecurity, frustration, lack of empathy, impatience, tension, doubt, arrogance, moodiness, discouragement, distraction and pessimism.

By understanding how to overcome these obstacles, you can clearly define goals and map out a game plan to reach them.

If you want to gain personal enrichment as well as the full ability to tap into your equestrian potential, I highly recommend picking up a copy of It’s Not Just About the Ribbons.

Trafalgar Square Publishing
www.horseandriderbooks.com
256pp. 63 color photos
ISBN: 9781570764011

Hunter Training & Tradition

Traditions and training make for a safer hunt
by Barb Hento

Hunters were originally used in the field to follow a pack of hounds in pursuit of a fox. Therefore, a horse that moves low to the ground, covering great distance with each stride, is desirable. A quiet temperament and good manners are a must. The rider, too, has traditions dating back to the early days of fox hunting. For both horse and rider, the history of the hunt are as important today as they have ever been.

Training the Hunter
To be successful and safe over fences a horse needs to be well broke. Ninety percent of the problems over fences can be fixed on the flat with schooling exercises. A good hunter needs to move off the rider’s leg and guide between the hands quietly and willingly. This is as important in the show ring as it is when riding across the country after a fox. The horse's and rider's safety, as well as their score, may depend on it.

Slow and low jumps help the horse gain confidence. When training over fences, the use of gymnastic exercises is beneficial as the horse learns to use his body. Trotting jumps is a good strategy, giving the rider more time to organize the horse. The trot is also an even, rhythmic gait, which helps to get the horse to the fence quietly. It is not necessary to jump big jumps when schooling. If your horse can trot a 2’6” jump in good form, he will easily canter a 3’ to 3’6” fence. Once your horse is schooled over low, simple rail-type fences, you can start to add what are referred to as "mental hazarded" jumps. These can be created by adding a blanket over or under the jump, upside-down buckets or cardboard boxes under a pole, or anything that can safely be added to the jump that will cause the horse to look and think.

Each breed has individuals with the potential to make nice hunters. How athletic the horse is will determine if it has star power. Not every horse will make an “A” show hunter, but many small shows offer classes over lower courses. Even if your horse will never see the inside of the big show ring, hours of enjoyment can be found jumping in the paddock at home.

You can also search for a local hunt club in your area to find experienced riders who will help you get started in the sport. Try asking at a nearby stable or searching the Internet for your city or county and the words "hunt club."

Traditions for the Rider
Have you ever wondered why hunter riders dress as they do? The many years of tradition are steeped in practical applications. Remember that fox hunting was often an all day event over the countryside in fall and winter. The tall leather boots worn by hunters give leg support and protection against branches and scrapes. A narrow strap at the top of the boot, called a boot garter, is held by a loop at the back. This strap fastens around the upper calf of the rider and can be used to fix a broken piece of equipment so the rider is not forced to give up the hunt and turn back.

Moving up the rider's body, breeches are made of comfortable material in beige, buff or canary yellow. A leather belt supports the rider’s back through a long day on the hunt, and a long-sleeved plain shirt and a canary yellow vest are worn under the coat, all of which serve to protect the rider against the fall and winter chill.

The coat is traditionally black melton (a heavy, smooth wool that protects against rain). If the rider is a member of a hunt club, the buttons will have an insignia and the collar will be done in the club's colors. The traditional scarlet coat is worn only by hunt officials, i.e., the master and whipper-ins (hunt assistants in charge of the dogs), which helps to identify them if needed in an emergency.

Around the neck, the rider wears a stock tie fastened by a plain gold or silver safety pin. A properly worn stock tie looks similar to an ascot. For the hunt, the tie is white and approximately 4” wide by 30” long. This piece of apparel is not just for show. Originally, the stock tie was used as an emergency bandage or sling, held together by the safety pin.

The hunt cap or hard hat is self-explanatory.

Riders wear leather gloves, but under each side of the saddle flap is a string glove placed between the skirt and billet, in case the leather gloves become wet and slippery.

Finishing touches to rider’s personal appointments are a sandwich and a flask case to carry refreshment. The whip handle is made with a hook to make it easy to open gates without dismounting. Usually, hunt officials will carry stirrup leather a cross their shoulders for emergency uses.

These are just a few of the hunt traditions in the rider’s dress. As you can see, what may seem like old-fashioned stuffiness has actually evolved from necessity through the years, and can still be useful today.

Stay Safe, Have Fun
A well-trained horse and a well-appointed rider made the fox hunts of the past run safely and smoothly. Modern fox hunts and hunter shows benefit from keeping with these traditions that preserve a bit of history and make a great sport for horsemen and women who want to enjoy the precision and athleticism of the hunt.

The Power of Relationship

Training for Health with Shared Hope for Healing

There is a moment for every horse person, perhaps so far back into youth that it can't be distinctly remembered, a moment when a relationship with a horse touches us with the magic of wholeness, a sense that we are safe, that we are trusted, that we are trustworthy, and that we are loved. But not everyone grows up around horses, and even those who do sometimes have other experiences in their lives that take away this sensation of safety and connection. The premise behind Equine Assisted Psychotherapy (EAP) and Equine Assisted Personal Development (EAPD) is that broken relationships can be restored, and that horses are one way to recreate those damaged bonds.

Not Just a Theory
As a psychotherapist, Linda Shannon of Rickreall, Oregon, has seen her share of trauma survivors. She began incorporating horses into her practice in 1999, but with a background in the social sciences, she felt strongly not only about assisting her clients, but also documenting her methods and providing scientific evidence of the efficacy of EAP and EAPD.

Click here to read the full story.