Progressions for Collection Without Tack, Part 1

Bridge techniques to bend and release the poll  

by Paul Dufresne  

Most people find it a considerable challenge to collect their horse, where they have control of the poll and the horse is put in a position to use its ring of muscles in the most powerful and efficient way possible. However, I am seeing more people on the right track with collection using a bit or even a halter and lead line. What is even more exciting is the fact that more leaders are ready to try preparing their horses to collect with non-traditional tack or no tack at all. This article will illustrate how you can get started.  

It is important that all horses have a foundation in the understanding of bending on a circle with lateral flexion and releasing the poll, obtaining vertical flexion. This includes young horses as well. (Note: These topics have been covered in previous articles; please see the NWHS Trainer's Corner archives online or contact the author if you don’t have them on hand.) 

Building a Bridge

This article is written under the pretext that people attempting this already have some d

ecent control of their horse’s poll with the lead line and halter or bit. To start with, I would bridge some more common techniques for controlling the poll with less traditional methods of doing so. Tools that can be used to assist in teaching this are cordeos (a leather or boat rope strap fitting the horse almost like a breast collar; in fact, old breast collars work well), whips, plastic bats, and even your hand. What we will do here is bridge between collecting on a lead line and connecting with a whip or cordeo, as an example.  (Photo at right: Friesian Stallion Ljibbe rounding with cordeo)

This type of training often works best in a series of micro training sessions.  Short three- to seven-minute sessions a few times a day work really well. You can use clicker training or not, but you should always shape the behavior with a conditioned response and reward any try in the right direction. This being said, when I use treats to reward the tries, they are minute, which allows more tries per session. I make sure I only give treats when I offer with an open hand; otherwise I close the hand.  I gently nudge horses away from trying to grab a treat when it hasn't been offered yet. When done correctly, horses learn to wait for the treat. This is not recommended for horses that are disrespectful and demanding—you must have a horse’s respect first!

Using cues

A verbal cue ( I use the word “round”) and/or looking at the horse's chest/neck area is the finishing cue that I want, so that is what I start with. Then I ask my horse to round with slight pressure on a cordeo. When I raise it slightly, it pushes up on the base of the neck. If using a whip, bat, or hand, I would touch the base of the neck 

with a light upward touch. I would bridge the technique by putting gentle pressure on the lead line and halter to achieve release

 of the poll. (Photo below: Yearling colt Easy setting poll with whip and halter line bridge)

As soon as the horse makes an attempt to release the poll or round, I would say "Good!" (or click if using a clicker) and reward with a treat. This would be repeated a few times, inviting the horse to round more, bringing his muzzle closer to his chest, rounding his neck and topline. I might also touch the muzzle gently and entice the horse to bring it toward his chest with my hand, which has a treat in it ready to reward a guess in the right direction.

The really cool thing in doing this is that when the horse actually rounds, he rewards himself by releasing his poll and starts to feel better about the whole exercise because it releases endorphins in his body. I would only repeat the above steps three to five times on the spot, and then have the horse move his feet to another spot. Not only is circulation increased, but so is the attentiveness. We will want the horse to round while moving as soon as possible. 

As my horses start to offer on the verbal cue, or even just a look, they get nice and round. I go as far as teaching the horse that “Good” means you are on the right track and only treat when I say "Good boy (or girl)." I allow them to stop all activity and give them the small treat while they are still in the rounded position. I would repeat this until the horse understands to keep rounding on the cue or in hope of getting rewarded with a treat. The more horses stay in a relaxed poll position, the better they feel and the more they are inclined to want to stay there. (Photo at right: Ljibbe taking things into his own mouth and rounding, as well as Easy offering at the suggestion in inpromtu play)

This exercise can be practiced while tacking up or while visiting a group of horses in pasture or paddock. I do this with horses of any age—including weanlings—solo or in groups. I find that some of the younger horses are great at building the desire to round in older horses that may have less food drive or have lost some of their zeal for such a simple game. It doesn’t take long before most horses will get very responsive. 

In part two we will discuss how to progress with this to moving in-hand, and then later to riding a collected horse without any tack. Have fun and watch your horses enjoy themselves! 

Learn more about collection without tack in the Training for Courage 2009 exhibitions.

May Spotlight on the News

Canada's Most Exciting Pro Rodeo Event Happens May 15-18, 2009 

The 63rd annual Cloverdale Rodeo and 120th Country Fair are shaping up to be the best ever this May long weekend (May 15 to 18), when the Cloverdale Fairgrounds will be alive with a B.C. tradition known for its top-notch rodeo action, family-friendly events and unparalleled entertainment.  

The Cloverdale Rodeo promises a weekend full of entertainment and action as the top ranked pro rodeo cowboys and cowgirls in the world descend on the Stetson Bowl in Cloverdale. The invitational rodeo format, introduced in 2008 with incredible success, ensures the world’s best will be on hand to compete in Saddle Bronc, Bareback & Bull Riding and Ladies Barrel Racing. 

For more information visit www.cloverdalerodeo.com.

***

Spalding Fly Predators

Product review by Raye Lochert

I hate flies. I don’t like them landing on me, in my house, in my truck, in my barn and especially on my horses. I also know that my neighbors hate flies.

 

I tried Spalding Fly Predators after meeting Tom Spalding at an expo. He sent a package of what looked like brown rice in a bag of shavings. I set them in a warm place, according to the directions, and in a couple of days there were little gnat-sized bugs crawling around. I sprinkled them around the entire ranch, wherever I thought flies might reproduce. I did this for the entire season and became a firm believer in Spalding Fly Predators.

We still had a few flies, but you wouldn’t notice unless you were looking for them. We would hold clinics, and at lunch time people wanted to know why we didn’t have flies. We spend far less money on fly sprays and I don’t need fly masks anymore.

To learn more, visit www.spalding-labs.com. 

***

A Different Kind of Horsepower - Safe-Guard®’s Scooter Giveaway Winners

Intervet/Schering-Plough Animal Health, a leader in providing quality animal healthcare products, is pleased to announce the winners of the Safe-Guard® Scooter Giveaway - Charlene Howell from Romoland, Calif. and Diane Burns from Canton, Texas.

 

"We are always trying to think of creative and useful ways to reward our Safe-Guard® customers," said Brett Whitehead, director of equine and agriculture retail for Intervet/Schering-Plough Animal Health. "With the price of gas rising to unheard of levels, we thought about offering scooters so horse owners could use them at all the various competitions and events that they take their horses to or just even as a way to ride around the farm or ranch to help conserve gas."

Safe-Guard® (fenbendazole) equine dewormers have set the industry standard for safe and effective parasite control in horses and are used by thousands of horse owners across the country to keep their horses healthy. 

For more information on Safe-Guard® visit www.getrotationright.com.

***

American Trails Selects www.weedfreefeed.com as "Best Internet Education & Trails Training Site" 

American Trails was created in 1988 and has been the collective voice for a diverse coalition of trails enthusiasts, land managers, conservationists, and friends of outdoor recreation and livable cities through its relationships with the Federal Highway Administration, state trail programs and federal land management agencies. Each year American Trails seeks out the best websites that make trails come alive, provide effective information delivery, support volunteers and engage the public. 

"It's a real thrill to receive this award and recognition," stated Bonnie Davis, owner of www.weedfreefeed.com and its sister site, www.twohorseenterprises.com.

For information, go to www.weedfreefeed.com. 

***

Ursa Wagons

Product review by Raye Lochert

If there were a four-wheel drive wagon, this thing would be a Hummer! The large tires make it easy to pull around the barnyard and through paddocks, and the wheel base gets me through stall doors with ease. It is so much more functional than any two-wheeled product. You don’t have to worry about balancing the load. Dumping the Ursa wagon is a breeze, even when fully loaded with wet manure. The turning radius is incredible—I can turn this wagon around in a stall that has a horse in it.

I use our wagon for much more than just cleaning stalls. I hook it up to the ATV to haul hay around. I use it to collect firewood, rocks, and yard trimmings, and to haul bedding around. I use it with the optional saddle racks to haul saddles to different spots on the ranch. This wagon has ability!

Learn more at www.ursawagon.com. 

Hand Positioning for Steering, Part 2 of 2

The basics of one-handed steering 

by Allison Trimble  

Last month, we took a look at two-handed steering. Now, let's look at one-handed.  

One of the main misconceptions about a horse being broke one handed (for neck reining) is that people believe that you just lay your rein across the horse’s neck and the horse will go the other way. This is a very small portion of what being broke one-handed means. Read the full article with photos in our digital edition!  

Contact and the Snaffle Bit

Developing contact: theory and practical use of bits, Part 1  

by Alice Trindle  

In this next series of articles, we will discuss the broad concept of developing "contact," or what some refer to as a "soft feel."  I will endeavor to relay my understanding of the use and theory behind such tools as the snaffle, the bosal, the double bridle, and true bits such as the spade, half-breed, curb, and Salinas. It is important to stress that these are my thoughts based on personal experiences, observations, and my teachers, both human and horse. As I researched this series, it became evident that there are a wide variety of opinions, many stated as fact, on the subject of developing contact and relating that to use of the bit. The bottom line is always the same: do your own reading, observation and listening, and then ask your horse what makes sense and feels right. 

 

What is Contact?

For me, contact is the connection, both mentally and physically, that enables the horse and rider team to feel for one another in self-carriage and with self-confidence. It is more than the horse giving in the jowl; it includes driving the energy up from the hindquarters, in a circular fashion, to a soft feel in the hands that accepts and caresses that energy. I want to feel for the horse's tongue by starting at the hind end and visualizing the wave of energy coming from the back up through the neck and resting with lightness in my hands. Here are some concepts that help me identify the feeling of contact:

•  A Good Dancing Partner is one who does not hold you so close that you cannot move, nor is he one who provides very little guidance. I want to dance with someone who is polite, thinks of me before we get to the dance floor, suggests the direction we may start, and then gently guides me with a supportive feel at the waist and a posture that says he is proud to dance with me. There is contact between us: feeling of, for, and with one another.

•  A Wise Sailor is one who does not pull on the lines to try to control the direction of the boat, nor does a sailor try to let nature take its course by allowing the wind to hit the sails while he maintains no feel on the lines. Rather, a thoughtful sailor will prepare ahead of time, check out the wind direction and place the sail by little manipulations on the lines so that as the wind comes up he can capture the energy and guide the boat effortlessly.

Why is Contact Important?  

Simply put, if I do not have contact, I probably do not have a connection! Think about the last time a friend you hadn’t spoken to for a while called you on the phone. Because of the phone line and shared memories, you have an immediate connection: contact! As you chat for a while, she makes a suggestion to get together: connection with a positive suggestion. As a result of the phone conversation, the two of you go to a fabulous event: the ultimate in contact! Why is contact important?  Because without your friend making the phone call and connecting, you would have never attended the event.

How to Develop Contact

What you do before you place a feel on the reins is critical to your success in truly developing contact. First, go through the Horseman’s Protocol and make sure you are present, have a clear picture in mind, and are willing with a positive attitude. Next, warm up using the gymnastic exercises (see previous article series at www.nwhorsesource.com or www.tnthorsemanship.com/articles). Last, depending on the development of your horse (i.e., age, physical preparation, attitude, and perhaps the jobs you will be asking him to perform), ask him to develop a measure of self-carriage, balance, and rhythm while gathering the energy from behind as you put a feel on the reins.

Ideally, the horse lengthens his neck, softens in the jowl, keeps his poll as the highest point (as if pushing up a feather), and drives from the hindquarters. The reins have a connection to the tongue, and the rider's fingers act, if needed, in slight sponging squeezes to massage away bracing. The rider’s elbows are heavy and legs are approached or connected to the horse but not kicking or bumping him forward into the contact. You are providing a place for the horse to drive up to and to begin to collect his balance underneath. 

The Snaffle Bit 

It has been said that the snaffle bit can be the best bit in the world or it can be the most severe. For too many humans, the bit they choose has more to do with show standards and perceptions rather than having the comfort and progression of the horse at heart. The best bit any of us can invest in is the bit of knowledge, caring, compassion, and grace.

For developing contact, the snaffle bit is an excellent tool. In thoughtful hands, it provides a nice connection to the horse's tongue, bars, and palate to enhance lateral flexion. When combined with balanced and rhythmic aids, the snaffle is a wonderful teaching tool for longitudinal flexion as well.

I am referring to snaffle bits as a general category of bits that are hinged in the middle, sometimes with one or two breaks or a floating roller or frog, and all of which have no shank. Typical shapes are egg-butt or loose-ring on the side portions of the bit. The curb strap is attached loosely and exists primarily to keep the egg-butt or ring from being drawn into the horse’s mouth. Reins are attached directly or through slobber straps, which act as a way to politely attach the mecate, as well as aiding the feel of the fingers. Materials vary from sweet iron to copper inlays to steel and aluminum. Avoid the aluminum or chrome bits, as they cause dryness in the horse’s mouth and are not healthy materials. 

When choosing a snaffle bit, I highly recommend consulting with a veterinarian who specializes in equine dentistry. They can prepare your horse so the bit fits comfortably, remove wolf teeth, and tell you about width, tongue thickness, and other details that will help you find the right fit.

Next month, we will talk about developing contact with both the snaffle and the bosal. Until then, give someone you haven’t spoken to for a while a call. Reconnect! Then try the same principles with your horse: get him "on the phone," create a clear picture for him of where you’d like to go, then go with him–together, with connection and contact!

Gimme Shelter, Part 2 of 3

Consider the location, construction, and convenience of your horse shelter 

by Alayne Blickle, Horses for Clean Water 

Last month we talked about what your horse needs for his shelter, as well as some thoughts on design and siting. This month we will cover potential regulations and structural considerations. 

Research county, city or local regulations before you start on your project, and be sure to check with zoning and building codes. Community considerations are important as well. Odors, dust, flies and noise can bother neighbors, and in the long run it's easier to avoid complaints. Consider management practices that make your place an asset to your neighborhood, such as adding native nest boxes for birds (and for insect control!), preserving trees and good pasture and manure management.

Building Considerations

The flooring in your stall or shelter should be dry and level. Rubber mats on top of 6 inches of gravel provide an excellent surface -- they keep an even surface for the horse to stand on with an amount of cushioning. They also reduce the amount of bedding needed and are very easy to clean. Packed clay is a traditional flooring but erodes over time, creating potholes in the stall. Concrete and wood are slick and hard and should not be used in horse stalls or shelters. 

Walls should be strong, smooth, free of projections, and at least eight feet high. Barn stalls should have a foot of space between the top of the wall and the ceiling to allow air movement and good ventilation. Walls should extend to the ground so horses cannot get its legs caught under them when lying down. Avoid sharp edges or corners, as well as square posts that can scrape. Beware of metal siding used for horse buildings. Metal edges and corners are very dangerous and can easily cause serious injury. Also, horses can easily kick through metal siding.

Minimum stall size is 12'x12', or 10'x10' for a small horse or pony. A one horse run-in shed should be at least 10’ x 12’. For two horses, depending on their temperaments and compatibility, 12’ x 16’ might work. When housing more than one horse in the same shelter, provide enough space to minimize the chance of injury. Timid or less aggressive horses can easily become trapped by a more dominant horse in small, enclosed areas or corners.

Power and Utilities

Are you planning on power, water, sewer or phone in your shelter or barn? If so, you need to investigate the feasibility of each. Unless you plan to haul water, you probably will at least need water lines. Shelters, barns and areas such as manure storage should be located at least 100’ away from well heads. If you are on a septic system, know where your drain field is located and don’t place structures or paddocks over it. Contact your county health department for help with well and septic questions. 

Storage

For feed storage, you can get by with a larger attached closet-sized area or a small shed located near your shelter. If you have a barn, then you will probably have hay storage in a loft area or extra stall. Consider how much hay you will be storing: one horse eats approximately 600 lbs of hay per month, and a ton of hay requires 200 cu. ft. of storage. Hay needs to be kept dry, out of the sun and weather. Store it off the ground on pallets with 4"-6" space between stacks for ventilation and rodent habitat reduction. Grain should be stored in rodent-proof containers and kept well away from any location where your horse could possibly get into it. If you are short on space, a simple alternative is to store the grain in your home or garage.

Tack and equipment should be kept where it is dry and convenient. This may be any place from a heated tack room in a barn to a closet in your horse’s shelter to your home. 

Shavings or bedding also need to be stored where they are dry and convenient. Large amounts are best stored away from horses because of dust, mold and fire danger. If you are tight on storage space, consider an alternative such as pelleted bedding. Wood pellets are made of kiln dried wood (usually fir, alder or pine and very little cedar) and sawdust. The fine material is compressed into a small, hard pellet that expands back to the sawdust stage once exposed to moisture. Pellets are usually sold by the bag, making transportation and storage easy. With the addition of a cover, you may even be able to store them outside, making them especially convenient. An added bonus is that since it is more absorbent you can use less bedding, saving on money while reducing stall waste!

Feeding Areas

It is most natural for horses to eat with their heads lowered; this aids in clearing their respiratory systems. You can feed in a manger or on the stall floor. Rubber floor mats work especially well for this purpose. Avoid feeding on sand or muddy ground, as this leads to ingestion of dirt, causing serious digestion problems. Grain can be fed in a flat, open pan or grain box. Avoid competition when you feed--it is best if horses can be fed separately. 

We finish this series next month with more details and resources for designing your at-home horse shelter. 

Until then, good horsekeeping to you!

~Alayne

Will Chiropractic Benefit My Horse? Part 3 of 3

The science behind chiropractic 

by Brooke Johnson, DVM, IVCA certified Animal Chiropractor 

Chiropractic is a very powerful tool in veterinary medicine. Why does it have such an impact on overall animal health? 

Neurology and kinesiology--study of the nervous system and study of movement--form the scientific base of chiropractic. Previous articles have discussed what a chiropractic exam entails, signs to look for indicating animals that will likely benefit from chiropractic, and how animal chiropractors diagnose vertebral subluxation complexes and correct them with adjustments. Vertebral subluxation complex, used in the chiropractic sense, means a joint that has a reduced range of motion. As the last article in this series, discussion here will focus on what effect a chiropractic adjustment has on the body and why such a small motion can have such a big impact. 

Understanding the Nervous System

A basic understanding of the nervous system is necessary to illustrate how information is transmitted through the body. The brain and spinal cord make up the central nervous system, and peripheral nerves travel from the central nervous system to all points of the body. Peripheral nerves have two parts: the nerve pathways leading toward the central nervous system, where incoming information travels, and pathways leading away from the brain and spinal cord, carrying outgoing information. Nerve cells only pass information in one direction, so the pathways leading away from and toward the same body part are separate. 

The nervous system has the enormous duty of coordinating all actions of the body. It must gather information from its sensory nerves to determine what kind of environment the body is facing. From the constant inflow of sensory information, actions are executed to keep the body working smoothly and allow it to appropriately deal with any ongoing stresses such as extreme environmental conditions, illness, nutritional deficiencies and social stressors. 

Healthy and smart decisions from the nervous system require healthy nerves. Nerves are healthy when they are used and fired frequently, much like a muscle requires regular use to maintain healthy muscle tone. The nervous system is used to accomplish consciously directed tasks such as movement, but the vast majority of nervous system use is done unconsciously to maintain posture against the ever-present force of gravity, digest food, thermoregulate, and carry out routine body processes.

Joint Health

Animal chiropractors gain access to the nervous system by evaluating movement within joints of the spine. If restricted movement is found, then an adjustment is performed. An adjustment is a specific, controlled thrust along the plane of a joint that stays within the normal range of motion of the joint. 

Joint health, like nerve health, requires regular use of the system. A joint that doesn’t move, or moves with a decreased range of motion, is more likely to become inflamed and injured. Joint movement involves much more than just the bones making up the joint. Muscles, tendons, cartilage, joint fluids, joint capsules, ligaments, and vertebral discs all work together to make joints move properly. Eighty percent of joint stabilization comes from muscle and tendon crossing the joint. Joint injury is mostly due to failure of soft tissue structures supporting the joint. Strong joints require movement and support. Movement and support are provided by muscles, and muscles need healthy nerves to work properly. Chiropractors can directly impact the nervous system by initiating movement within a joint during an adjustment.

The brain can be considered a computer. It takes in information, analyzes it, then performs an action. For the brain to make decisions about which muscles to use, how much to use them, and when to rest them it needs good, reliable incoming information. Joints that don’t move properly don’t send quality information to the brain for use in decision making. Poor inflow of information increases the chance of a poor decision on how to run body functions. Poor decisions may be seen as muscle spasms, decreased flexibility, pain, or organ malfunction. This is a classic example of garbage in, garbage out.

Whole Horse Health

The previous discussion is needed to illustrate where chiropractic impacts the nervous system. Chiropractic affects input into the nervous system. The most efficient way to treat and have a corrective influence on improper joint mechanics is to change the input from that joint to the brain. A chiropractic adjustment accomplishes this and makes message inflow clearer so the brain can make better output decisions. Chiropractic helps optimize nervous system function. 

Many people easily make the connection between chiropractic and the musculoskeletal system. The less obvious connection is between chiropractic and all other body systems. The immune, digestive, cardiovascular, respiratory, reproductive and musculoskeletal systems are all coordinated by the nervous system. If the nervous system works better, the whole animal works better. 

In conclusion, chiropractic is able to positively impact animal health by allowing the nervous system to function more effectively. Since the nervous system coordinates all actions of the body, benefits of chiropractic are seen within all body systems. 

What is a Hanoverian?

For generations, the Hanoverian horse has been recognized as one of the most prominent and successful breeds of riding horses in the world today. The breed originated in northern Germany in the state of Lower Saxony, the former kingdom of Hannover, where a flourishing horse-breeding industry has existed for 400 years. The State Stud was established at Celle in 1735, and the Hanoverian Studbook was officially begun in 1888. 

The breed retains the substantial bone, sturdiness and stamina of its heritage: nearly 300 years ago the Hanoverian was bred to serve as a robust carriage and military horse. Since the end of World War II, the breeding goal has been to exclusively produce a more versatile performance horse. The Hanoverian has natural impulsion and light and elastic gaits characterized by a ground-covering walk, a floating trot, and a soft, round, rhythmic canter.

 

Quality performance prospects are the result of the Hanoverian selection process. Each year the American Hanoverian Society (AHS) organizes a national inspection tour to register foals, inspect and performance test mares, and license stallions. The Mare Performance Test (MPT) scores a mare’s rideability, gaits and jumping talent. All stallion candidates must be presented for physical inspection. If scores on conformation, movement and jumping ability are sufficient, a temporary breeding license is granted. Stallions must then either complete the 100-Day Stallion Test, which evaluates their gaits, trainability and athletic ability in dressage, show jumping and cross country, or they must meet specified performance requirements. In order for a foal to be registered, both the sire and dam must be AHS approved. Breeding eligibility is verified annually.

Information and photo courtesy of the American Hanoverian Society, www.hanoverian.org.

Pictured: EMC Posh, owned and ridden by Elizabeth Fouch and bred by George Walker III, S.C.  Photo © 2007 Hoofclix

General Wound Care

Get familiar with basic equine wound care before you hit the trails and shows 

by R. Paul Schwab, DVM 

Everybody has a wound spray, ointment, powder, or miracle paint to sell to treat wounds. In fact, the more strange the product, the more people think it works (especially if it’s blue, smells like turpentine, and was made in a jar in someone’s garage). Do these products work? Maybe. Who says? The neighbor, the vet, the feed store? Probably not the FDA. What is the best way to treat a wound? Is there a best way? In this article I hope to cover some basic wound care concepts. 

When to Call the Vet

Obviously, anything that looks like it requires suturing (i.e., gaping wounds, visible bone, excessive bleeding, etc.), has loss of function or excessive swelling should be seen by a veterinarian. Wounds that require sutures should be looked at within 12 hours to have the best outcome. Also, horses that are acting sick or running a fever (temperature greater than 101 degrees) should be seen. Other cases that may warrant veterinary attention are wounds that are slow to heal or have excessive granulation tissue, known commonly as proud flesh.

What Can You Do?

General wound cleaning and irrigation goes a long way. One of the first things we like to do, especially on a deep wound, is clip the hair around the wound to keep it from matting up with serum, blood and other debris. Clipping all wounds is a good idea because it often reveals a much larger wound than was seen without clipping. Gentle scrubbing with warm water and a mild soap such as Ivory liquid soap is helpful for removing debris. Povidone-iodine scrubs are excellent for cleaning and disinfecting the skin, but might be a bit too strong for inside a deep wound. Please, no peroxide! Hydrogen peroxide damages healthy tissue.

Wound irrigation is best done with saline solution. You can buy bags or bottles of sterile saline solution from your veterinarian (not a bad thing to have in a first aid kit). You can also make your own saline solution by adding two teaspoons of salt to one liter of water. Obviously, the cleaner the water is, the better. For small wounds, a 35-60cc syringe fitted with an 18 gauge needle works well to spray the saline over the wound. (Don’t inject the wound, spray it...yes, it has happened.)  Clean spray bottles also work well as saline wound irrigators. For larger wounds, a garden sprayer used to spray weeds (a new one, or at least a really clean one) makes an excellent large volume irrigator, as well as a good giant water pick for your horse’s mouth.

After the wound is thoroughly cleaned, it should be bandaged if possible. Keeping a wound covered helps keep the skin supple and elastic. Wounds that are not covered can be treated with triple antibiotic ointment to help with infection and to keep the skin edges soft. 

Special Considerations

Puncture wounds can be especially problematic. They appear small on the surface but often have deep pockets under the skin that can become infected. They will look fine for 24 hours or so, and then swell up with infection under the skin. These wounds typically need to be opened at the bottom to allow drainage.

Tetanus should be a consideration with any wound. If the horse has not had a tetanus vaccination within six months, it should get a booster.

Healing wounds should be monitored carefully for proud flesh. When a deep wound is healing, it fills with granulation tissue. This is the pink, lumpy tissue that quickly fills in the gap between the separated skin edges. The skin then slowly contracts over this granulation tissue until it is healed. Occasionally the granulation tissue keeps growing higher than the skin edges, preventing the skin from coming together. We call this "exuberant granulation tissue" or "proud flesh." Lower leg wounds in horses are especially prone to proud flesh formation because of poor blood perfusion and high motion. There are numerous ointments that claim to prevent proud flesh formation, but once it has developed, it has to be trimmed off to the level of the skin. You should get your veterinarian involved at this point; it can be dangerous, and granulation tissue bleeds heavily when cut.

In general, wound care is basic. Keep it clean, flush with saline, and monitor the whole horse (i.e., temperature, attitude, swelling, etc.). Worry more about what not to put on a wound, rather than what to put on it. If you wouldn’t put it on your own wound, don’t put it on your horse’s wound. Above all, keep in touch with your veterinarian regarding wounds on your horse. Every horse is different, and every wound is different. 

The New Ride with Your Mind Clinic

Rider Biomechanics—Basics to Brilliance 

by Mary Wanless 

Mary Wanless helped revolutionize riding with her "Ride with Your Mind" technique. Now she’s back with exciting new ideas and exercises that she has discovered since writing her previous books. She delivers these tantalizing tidbits of riding know-how in the form of a riding “clinic.” Join her in the arena as her students of varying levels of experience and ability demonstrate common problems with riding position and aiding. 

Find out how to use Wanless’s methods to improve faults such as:

•Tipping forward

•Leaning back

•Hollowing the back

•Rounding the back

•Asymmetries in the saddle

•And more

MARY WANLESS has combined her lifetime of equestrian knowledge with experience gained by studying psychology, biofeedback, neuro-linguistic programming (NLP), the Alexander and Feldenkrais techniques, Tai Chi, massage, dance, anatomy, sports psychology, and educational kinesiology. 

Trafalgar Square Publishing

192 pp • 150 color photos, 50 illustrations

ISBN: 978 1 57076 391 5

www.horseandriderbooks.com

Sitting the Trot

Nine quick tips for a successful sitting trot 

by Jane Savoie 

1. First and foremost, your horse needs to be on the bit. If his back is hollow, stiff, or tight, you'll find it impossible to sit comfortably--and, in turn, you'll make your horse uncomfortable too! (Editor's note: See Jane's column in the NWHS February 2009 issue for help getting your horse on the bit.)

2. Slow the trot down. Ride "sub-power," and when you can sit easily, increase the impulsion for just a few strides at a time. Then slow down again.

3. Put your horse on the bit in posting trot. Once he's round, sit for just a couple of strides. Start posting again before you feel like you need to grip with your legs. Reorganize your body, relax your legs, and sit again for just a couple of strides.

4. Cross your stirrups over the front of the saddle. Post without your irons until your legs are tired. If they're tired, you can't grip, so you'll sit deeper.

5. Focus on your hips. Notice how they open and close in the walk. Mimic that motion when you're in sitting trot.

6. Pretend you're a belly dancer. As you swing your hips, use a buzz phrase like "Do the hootchie kootchie."

7. Hold the front of the saddle with your inside hand. Use that hand to pull you deeper into the saddle so you can learn the feeling of sitting close to your horse in sitting trot.

8. Relax your knees and thighs by taking then an inch or so off the saddle for a moment, letting them drop, and then placing them on lightly again.

9. Take lunge lessons. This is the best way to develop an independent seat so you can sit the trot easily. Don't use any reins or stirrups. Let the person lunging you handle steering and controlling the speed. Do exercises in which you move one part of your body while you keep the rest of your body still (arm circles, scissor kicks etc.). Also, just practice sitting deeply on your horse in his traveling gaits as well as through upward and downward transitions.

This article originally published at ezinearticles.com. Reprinted with permission.

Backcountry, Wine Country, Horse Country

Horse activities in Northern California

by Nicole Lanphear

You won’t find it in a brochure, but there is a place for horse lovers to ride and have a picnic with a 1,200-year-old redwood affectionately called the “Grandmother tree.” You can only find this in Jack London State Historic Park of Northern California.

The state of California offers an expanse of horse activities, but the northern half of the state is distinctive from the southern half. Lifelong California resident Tiffany Whitehouse says Northern California has more opportunities to go out and enjoy riding horses. From vineyard tours to wilderness trails, Northern California is a haven for recreational riding. 

Click here to read the full article in PDF format.

Click here to read the full article in our digital edition